Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Scott Baxter & Gordon Douglass 1978/9
Page Views: 9,683 total · 45/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on May 20, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

East of Eden is one of the Forks 5.10 classics.

It's long, steep and just hard enough to be lots of fun. Start by face climbing up blocky rock to get into the steep crack system. Continue up to a section where fingers in the corner leads to a sort of "V" formed by tight hands size cracks. This is the business. Get through this and it's easier to the rim.

IMHO, this is one of the MUST DO routes at the Forks.

Location Suggest change

Located right below the Ansel Adams tree, a gnarled juniper tree perched right on the canyon rim. A sort of ramp leads down to the rim below the west side of the tree and that's the top of the route. You can establish a rap off a large clean pine straight above this point and about 35 feet back from the rim.

Protection Suggest change

Good assortment of nuts and cams from small up to #2 Camalot. Take extras between #0.5 and #1 Camalot size.

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