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The Eden Wall
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East of Eden T 
Fish & Whistle T,TR 
Garden Of Eden T,S 
West of Eden T 

East of Eden 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,112
Submitted By: Holly Barnard on Sep 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Clearing the crux on East of Eden.

Description 

This is a favorite 1-pitch route. It ascends the obvious right facing dihedral directly above the Eden area pullout. Hike a few feet upslope from the pullout to a nice level belay spot. I would advise the belayer at the base to anchor in since the crux is only a few feet off the deck and a fall could result in both people rolling down slope into their car (or the road) below.

As noted above, the crux is only a little ways off the deck, but high enough to make you think twice about your gear before you pull the moves. Climb up to an overhang. Place some bomber gear and crank over (5.9). Then enjoy stemming, jamming, and liebacking the handcrack that lies above (5.8). Lots of fun! As you belay your partner up, you can watch folks rubber neck at you as they drive by.

Protection 

Standard rack - possibly bring some doubles of hand-sized cams. Be sure to save 2-3 runners with biners for the bolted belay at the top. 2 ropes for the rappel.


Photos of East of Eden Slideshow Add Photo
Scotty ripping threw with my first clean ascent of...
Scotty ripping threw with my first clean ascent of...
Cruising to the top of East of Eden.
Cruising to the top of East of Eden.
A nice shot of the East of Eden route.
BETA PHOTO: A nice shot of the East of Eden route.
Getting a tiny nut in under the roof.  This pictur...
Getting a tiny nut in under the roof. This pictur...
Looking up canyon towards the East of Eden route.
Looking up canyon towards the East of Eden route.

Comments on East of Eden Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 2, 2014
By Adam Holmes
Oct 2, 2002

You can climb past the anchors and continue to the top of the wall. The rock quality deteriorates a little but I don't remember it being too bad. I actually didn't mean to climb past the anchor but I lost my glasses earlier that day. I didn't even see the anchor and I just ended up at the top of the wall, to my surprise.

East of Eden is a great climb, and would be 3 stars at any area. But, unfortunately, it's about the only route worth climbing in that area of the Poudre.
By Brian Weinstein
Oct 19, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

What a neat line in that area of the canyon. Great rock quality. Get those small stoppers ready before you pull the crux. You can get at least two beauties before you crank over the small roof. The rest is pure joy.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 4, 2004

You can rap to the ledges with a 58 meter rope or more (long story). Also you can get away with a rack of nothing larger than a #1 Camalot pretty easily. This line is well worth doing, and is a great finish to a day you almost rolled your truck in the canyon and boarded down diamond peaks (I wouldn't recommend the first though).
By nolteboy
Jun 22, 2005

Quite an anomaly for the Poudre - this canyon would be a destination area if it were full of quality lines like this one.
By flash5twelve
From: Ft. Collins, CO
May 9, 2007

Excellent pitch! Four stars anywhere. A 70m rope will get you easily to the ledge below the climb where we belayed.
By phil Sabet
Mar 30, 2008

This is a great crack climb. Gear up to a #3 Camalot...doubles of #2 and #3 if you want to sew it up. This would be unbelievable if it went for another 1000 feet.
By westy
From: Loveland, Co
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The misconception is that it's easier after the crux roof, maybe not as hard but still requires an extended amount of focus and sustainable strength for the next 100'. The pro is selective, rest stops are there but not given away. Keep in mind that the river is right next to you and conversation / commands are muffled at best. Did this route with Denise and Chad as a group of three. The anchors are solid and there is enough room, although the stance is not all that comfortable. We will be back for more in the near future. Definitely a great route.
By denise 911
From: fort collins, co
Jun 29, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Roof is technical crux (and height dependent - as is much of the route) I agree with Todd - don't think it's easy sailing once over the roof - I found the bulge just above more trying. "Front Range Crags" lists this as 5.9+. Fun sustained climbing the whole way - we'll be back for this one again.
By Scott Bower
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route stays in the shade until late morning (around 11:00 today). A 60M rope is enough to rap back to where we belayed. I thought the real crux was the bulge just above the initial overhang, but careful footwork and stemming may be what I lacked.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Mar 8, 2009

RPs at the roof, and big nuts/small cams above protect this route well. Only used one cam bigger than a 1.5 Friend5/0.75 Camalot.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 23, 2009

This is a favorite of mine, not a big fan of car climbing, but this route is a Poudre Canyon classic. I bring a fist full of small cams, a small nut (BD #4) to protect the crux buldge. A couple of large stoppers, a #2 (C4), and a #4 (C4)for the top for a perfect fit (but not necessary). Three bolt anchor at the ramp. FUN FUN.
By boydpainting
From: Estes Park CO
Feb 4, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A #1 Ballnut/slider protects the move out over the roof quite well.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 17, 2010

Excellent climb, "real" (as I like to say) with a big feel. I motorcycled up from Boulder and self-belayed it. The trip was well worth it for this one pitch.

The crux for me by far was the first moves. I almost backed off. There are a few other 9 moves above, but the climb gets easier and easier as you get higher, with good holds and ledges appearing on the right wall, and the occasional hold for stemming on the left wall. I only did a few hand and foot jams, most of those low down. At one point it's easiest to climb completely on the right wall ignoring the corner.

This is a great climb to use passive pro on, due to excellent placements and good stances from which to place gear.

If you want to top rope this after leading, you'll need a cordalette or two as the bolts are set a ways back from the edge.
By Amanda Chapin
Oct 24, 2010

Yeah, C.T.! Approach shoes in the rain.
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun line! The crux is low but quite straightforward. Enjoyable, well protected climbing. A 60m will get you to the ledge; so no need to trail a 2nd cord. I'll be sure to jump on this when I am in the area again.
By Ian Stewart
Oct 3, 2012

Did this climb for the first time yesterday, and I'll definitely be back. The crux was definitely the bottom, but as others have said, you can fit a bomber #4/5 BD nut right before it (and back that up with a small cam a couple feet lower if you want). I don't own hexes, but I do remember a few spots where I thought "a hex would be perfect here". A number of bomber placements for big nuts (or hexes), and having an extra #1 or #2 C4 is nice, too. This is a great climb for somebody pushing into 9s as there are great stances and gear the whole way up.
By Travkrack
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Jul 17, 2013

Use a 70 meter rope for the rappel to make it back to the ledge just under rough. Do not rappel with one 60 meter rope! Bring two!
By Mitch Hodge
From: Lyons / Fort Collins CO
Nov 2, 2014

Did not trail a second rope and rapped comfortably to the belay ledge using a 60m cord. A single 60m will get you down just fine.