East of Eden 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | TR: Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.
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Description This route if located at the top of the trail, on the face just left of "Edge of Time". You can scramble to the top of this wall by continuing to the top of the trail, turning right and then going in between the two [obvious] walls, scramble up to your right to get on top of the wall. This description seems vague, but when you are there, it is pretty obvious, sorry.
This route climbs just left of Edge of Time as indicated and is decent climbing on top rope, not suggested to be lead, unless it is retrobolted.
Protection Anchor on top for top roping - old anchor with 3 old sleeved and 2 new - If leading on natural gear - good luck!
By allen simons
Aug 22, 2011
| Led this the other day thinking it was the stiffest 5.7 I had been on in a while. Turns out it is 5.9. Note to self, bring my guidebook next time, but it was an exciting lead and fun. |
By Jeremy Jones
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| If you use the tree, it is much easier, maybe 5.7 to 5.8. I did think the crux (between bolt one and two) was harder than a 5.9-. I was burned out, last climb of the day, but it felt like a two move 5.10a at the crux. The route was awesome!!!! Thanks, Lisa G. and Lance T., for climbing with me. |
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
5 days ago
rating: 5.9
| Nice route, and well worth climbing. Note that East of Eden is left of Lost Time. (Lost Time is correctly described as being about 10 ft left of Edge of Time, and East of Eden is about another 40 ft further left.) East of Eden is well bolted and no longer either R or PG-13. |
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