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East Main Bluff

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Chickenhead Wall 
Dead Dog & Energamata Walls 
Fraggle Rock Wall 
Hero Maker Wall 
Prow & Reality Wall, The 
Too Big to Finger Walls 

East Main Bluff  


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Page Views: 42,381
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 26, 2006
Forecast:
Today

68-94°F
Tue

73-92°F
Wed

72-89°F
Thu

73-95°F
Fri

74-99°F
Sat

69-102°F
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Erik near the lip of Arkansas Reality.

Description 

The East Main Bluff consists of all the lines from the Hero Maker Wall, by the road, to the Chickenhead Wall, down by the Throne, where the bluff line takes a sharp turn to become the West Main Bluff.

This area faces roughly east, so it has some pretty good climbing in cooler weather, especially fall, but all seasons are good. The rock is the same great sandstone that is found all over this area.

The order of the areas from left to right as seen from the bottom of the climbs is:
Chickenhead Wall
The Prow
Reality Wall
Dead Dog Wall
Energemata Wall
Fraggle Rock Wall
Too Big to Finger Wall
Reader's Digest Wall
Hero Maker Wall

Getting There 

From the parking lot, hike down the road to the left, ending in a a circle drive. From there, head down a trail towards the east, ending on top of the Chickenhead Wall.

From here, either rap the descent near The Wasp on the West Main Bluff or continue along the top of the East Main Bluff to the Catacomb Walkdown, which involves some downclimbing in a chimney.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',3],['5.10',11],['5.11',4],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Main Bluff:
Smooth Operator   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Prow & Reality Wall
Slam Dance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Prow & Reality Wall
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Chickenhead Wall
Windy Armbuster   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Chickenhead Wall
Arkansas Reality   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Prow & Reality Wall
Browse More Classics in East Main Bluff

Featured Route For East Main Bluff
McLane climbing the chossy section before the firs...

Break in the Battle 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : ... : Too Big to Finger Walls
This double roof crack earns its name. Battle through a wide roof crack with deep jams. Take your break. Then finish the battle through another roof crack before the finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

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