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East Main Bluff

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Chickenhead Wall 
Dawn Wall 
Dead Dog & Energamata Walls 
Hero Maker Wall 
Prow & Reality Wall, The 

East Main Bluff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.87319, -93.04787 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,167
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 26, 2006
Forecast:
Overnight

72°
Monday

88° | 72°
Tuesday

88° | 71°
Wednesday

91° | 72°
Thursday

88° | 70°
Friday

87° | 70°
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beginning the exit sequence. Photo by Andy "S...

Description 

The East Main Bluff consists of all the lines from the Hero Maker Wall, by the road, to the Chickenhead Wall, down by the Throne, where the bluff line takes a sharp turn to become the West Main Bluff.

This area faces roughly east, so it has some pretty good climbing in cooler weather, especially fall, but all seasons are good. The rock is the same great sandstone that is found all over this area.

The order of the areas from left to right as seen from the bottom of the climbs is:
Chickenhead Wall
The Prow
Reality Wall
Dead Dog Wall
Energemata Wall
Fraggle Rock Wall
Too Big to Finger Wall
Reader's Digest Wall
Hero Maker Wall

Getting There 

From the parking lot, hike down the road to the left, ending in a a circle drive. From there, head down a trail towards the east, ending on top of the Chickenhead Wall.

From here, either rap the descent near The Wasp on the West Main Bluff or continue along the top of the East Main Bluff to the Catacomb Walkdown, which involves some downclimbing in a chimney.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

42 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',7],['5.9',3],['5.10',13],['5.11',5],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Main Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Main Bluff:
Slam Dance   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Prow & Reality Wall
Smooth Operator   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Prow & Reality Wall
The Natural   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   The Prow & Reality Wall
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Chickenhead Wall
Windy Armbuster   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Chickenhead Wall
Dead Dog   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dead Dog & Energamata Walls
Arkansas Reality   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   The Prow & Reality Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Main Bluff

Featured Route For East Main Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik just below the roof of Arkansas Reality.

Arkansas Reality 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : ... : The Prow & Reality Wall
Climb low angled dihedral and fingercrack to the base of the 12 foot roof crack. Pull through on jams and jugs over the lip and angle right on the chickenheads above to the anchors. You can continue to the top of the cliff in another easy pitch or just rap....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

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