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By Wade Griffith
Jan 16, 2006
|This area is referred to as Nat's Three Star by all the locals I have known. Most of the climbs here are considered boulder problems since the good climbing is all in the first 15 feet on all the problems and from there on they all get easy. Most of the bolts you find on any of those "routes" have had their hangers removed years ago. The climb called "Deniro" in Kelman's guide is "Nat's Three Star" the namesake boulder problem of the area with about 12 feet of roof crack climbing from a sit start to a difficult move around the lip. I would beware If I was putting up new routes here cause even the tall boulders have highball problems.|
By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Jul 6, 2006
Yeah. Sure would like those hangers back.
I'm not really wanting a discussion, but here's a bit of relative info from a perp (Dude, I am 15 Years a Local):
Problem is, being a local doesn't mean you hang with multitudinous other "locals." Even sketchy info is sometimes nonexistent.
"Deniro," which begins from Nate's 3 Star, branches onto the nubbly face to the right of said relenting crack. The lip is a very difficult move. Those unwilling to do that particular move could actually ooze in from the left, just above the lip. Alas, to utilize the bolts, you must carry 4 hangers and a wrench. Unless the steel has been chiseled.
"Madonna" was a leisurely, short slab, a move or two of 5.4, perfect little thing for funsters or beginners. May she continue to recline in piece... (*snort* You might as well go chop "Southwest Friction" on Poland Hill... it's only ten feet longer...)
Jul 7, 2006
Dude, many of those "routes" were established boulder problems. Everything at "The Burbs" in Kelmans guide are boulder problems.
I do agree with you on the issue of obtaining information and how it can be nonexistent at times, but if you found a local and asked them, they would tell you about these established boulder problems. We are not all half as crusty as we have the reputation of being. I'm sure the bolts at "The Burbs" were chopped because locals don't like the idea of retrobolting and/or renaming established boulder problems as routes. I would like to think that the same thing would happen at any other area.