East Hellgate Rock Climbing
Snowbird, from the Clamshell, or rather the Meltin...
|Park your car off of the main canyon road.|
Quite possibly THE
destination in Little Cottonwood
for bolt clipping classics, East Hell Gate
will unleash a massive attack of routes in all shapes and sizes. Found just before Alta, this limestone retreat offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're looking for a quick, after-work session or an all day, arm-busting burn, the East Hell Gate
Holding more pockets than a Levi's
factory, East Hell Gate
is an excellent place for sport pulling, hauling, lugging, and jugging! Primarily constructed of pockets and edges, the nature of this wall lends itself to be the perfect balance of "thuggy" climbing and finesse.
An area once called "to chossy to climb", the East Hell Gate
has proven that you really can polish a turd. I've had the pleasure or displeasure of climbing these routes early after their first ascents, its been fun to have witnessed the transformation from choss to gloss. Routes such as The Antidote
or Hellish Inferno
only get better with time and I'm sure the rest will follow.
So grab a rope, some draws, a helmet or two
, and a harness and give these routes a spin.
Parking can be found during low traffic days at the Alta Peruvian Lodge about 7.45 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon
. Optional overflow parking can also be found on the north side of the road below the Main Hellgate Cliffs
at about the 7.35 mile mark. The approach to this area begins directly across from the Alta Peruvian Lodge. A cairn marked climber's trail breaks off the service road and takes about 5 minutes of steep switchbacking to reach the Melting Mud Wall
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
46 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in East Hellgate
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Hellgate
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Hellgate:
Featured Route For East Hellgate
Melting Into Madness 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : The Melting Mud Wall
A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Jason Shumaker
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 2, 2014
As you hike into the area I think it goes melting mud, melting mud west, goat gully, goatland wall and then the clamshell at the end.