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East Hellgate
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Clamshell, The 
Goat Gully Wall 
Goatland Wall 
Melting Mud Wall, The 
Melting Mud West 

East Hellgate 


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Elevation: 8,530'
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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: grk10vq on Dec 25, 2009

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Park your car off of the main canyon road.


Snowbird, from the Clamshell, or rather the Meltin...

Description 

Quite possibly THE destination in Little Cottonwood for bolt clipping classics, East Hell Gate will unleash a massive attack of routes in all shapes and sizes. Found just before Alta, this limestone retreat offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're looking for a quick, after-work session or an all day, arm-busting burn, the East Hell Gate will deliver.

Holding more pockets than a Levi's factory, East Hell Gate is an excellent place for sport pulling, hauling, lugging, and jugging! Primarily constructed of pockets and edges, the nature of this wall lends itself to be the perfect balance of "thuggy" climbing and finesse.

An area once called "to chossy to climb", the East Hell Gate has proven that you really can polish a turd. I've had the pleasure or displeasure of climbing these routes early after their first ascents, its been fun to have witnessed the transformation from choss to gloss. Routes such as The Antidote or Hellish Inferno only get better with time and I'm sure the rest will follow.

So grab a rope, some draws, a helmet or two, and a harness and give these routes a spin.


Getting There 

Parking can be found during low traffic days at the Alta Peruvian Lodge about 7.45 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. Optional overflow parking can also be found on the north side of the road below the Main Hellgate Cliffs at about the 7.35 mile mark. The approach to this area begins directly across from the Alta Peruvian Lodge. A cairn marked climber's trail breaks off the service road and takes about 5 minutes of steep switchbacking to reach the Melting Mud Wall.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Hellgate:
Los Crudos   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Rat Bastards   5.9+     Sport, 75 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Pocket City   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Goat Gully Wall
Devil's Advocate   5.10a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Melting Mud West
Antidote   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Devils Advocate on Crack   5.10a/b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 105 feet   Melting Mud West
Alcohol Rub Out   5.10b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Melting Mud West
Repeat and Offend   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Hot Pockets   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Goatland Wall
Martinez Mind Melter   5.10c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Winking Owl   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Goatland Wall
The Bird Is the Word   5.10d     Sport, 2 pitches, 135 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Step into the Fire   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Goat Gully Wall
Melting Into Madness   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80110 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Sinistar   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Hellish Inferno   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Goat Gully Wall
Brain Doner   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Turbo Sphincter   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Goatland Wall
Shock & Awe   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Goatland Wall
Public Nuisance   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Melting Mud Wall
Browse More Classics in East Hellgate

Featured Route For East Hellgate
Fett sending Turbo Sphincter.

Turbo Sphincter 5.11  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Goatland Wall