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East Hellgate

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Clamshell, The 
Goat Gully Wall 
Goatland Wall 
Melting Mud Wall, The 
Melting Mud West 

East Hellgate  


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Elevation: 8,530'
Location: 40.59012, -111.64445 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,964
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Dec 25, 2009
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Snowbird, from the Clamshell, or rather the Meltin...

Park your car off of the main canyon road.

Description 

Quite possibly THE destination in Little Cottonwood for bolt clipping classics, East Hell Gate will unleash a massive attack of routes in all shapes and sizes. Found just before Alta, this limestone retreat offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're looking for a quick, after-work session or an all day, arm-busting burn, the East Hell Gate will deliver.

Holding more pockets than a Levi's factory, East Hell Gate is an excellent place for sport pulling, hauling, lugging, and jugging! Primarily constructed of pockets and edges, the nature of this wall lends itself to be the perfect balance of "thuggy" climbing and finesse.

An area once called "to chossy to climb", the East Hell Gate has proven that you really can polish a turd. I've had the pleasure or displeasure of climbing these routes early after their first ascents, its been fun to have witnessed the transformation from choss to gloss. Routes such as The Antidote or Hellish Inferno only get better with time and I'm sure the rest will follow.

So grab a rope, some draws, a helmet or two, and a harness and give these routes a spin.

Getting There 

Parking can be found during low traffic days at the Alta Peruvian Lodge about 7.45 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. Optional overflow parking can also be found on the north side of the road below the Main Hellgate Cliffs at about the 7.35 mile mark. The approach to this area begins directly across from the Alta Peruvian Lodge. A cairn marked climber's trail breaks off the service road and takes about 5 minutes of steep switchbacking to reach the Melting Mud Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

45 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',25],['5.11',10],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Hellgate:
Los Crudos   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Melting Mud Wall
Minor Threat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Melting Mud Wall
Rat Bastards   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   The Melting Mud Wall
Antidote   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Melting Mud Wall
Wisky Bench   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90110'   The Melting Mud Wall
Pocket City   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Goat Gully Wall
A Cloud In The Sky   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Clamshell
Dayglow Abortions   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Melting Mud Wall
Devil's Advocate   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'   Melting Mud West
Alcohol Rub Out   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'   Melting Mud West
Hot Pockets   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Goatland Wall
Martinez Mind Melter   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Melting Mud Wall
Melting Into Madness   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'   The Melting Mud Wall
Step into the Fire   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Goat Gully Wall
The Bird Is the Word   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   The Melting Mud Wall
Sinistar   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Melting Mud Wall
Hellish Inferno   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Goat Gully Wall
Brain Doner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Melting Mud Wall
Turbo Sphincter   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Goatland Wall
Public Nuisance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Melting Mud Wall
Browse More Classics in East Hellgate

Featured Route For East Hellgate
Fett sending Turbo Sphincter.

Turbo Sphincter 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Goatland Wall

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By Jason Shumaker
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 2, 2014
As you hike into the area I think it goes melting mud, melting mud west, goat gully, goatland wall and then the clamshell at the end.