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East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff
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Excalibur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Monkey Bar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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See Saw S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Untitled S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Elevation: | 7,651 ft |
| GPS: |
38.98924, -119.90783 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 58,508 total · 632/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
The most expedient approach to the main climbing area trail is through the East Gully. As you near the bottom there is one untitled route in this gully on the right side--a burly start (which can be bypassed on higher ground) followed by a juggy, colorful wall with open cold shuts at the top.
Playground Rock is a buttress with a 5.7 and a 5.9 (L to R) starting vertical (but moderate) and continuing up a low angle wall. If you happen to be looking for the easiest route around here, try School Rock, the area to the climber's Right where there is a low angle juggy 5.5.
The Prize Cliff is an impressive wall, slightly overhanging with a tree at its corner and features a classic 11b called "Excalibur."
Playground Rock is a buttress with a 5.7 and a 5.9 (L to R) starting vertical (but moderate) and continuing up a low angle wall. If you happen to be looking for the easiest route around here, try School Rock, the area to the climber's Right where there is a low angle juggy 5.5.
The Prize Cliff is an impressive wall, slightly overhanging with a tree at its corner and features a classic 11b called "Excalibur."
Getting There
Look for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (less than 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. Near the base you will find a juggy untitled route on the right (with a difficult start). Once at the base of the gully you will meet the main climbing area trail.
The routes on Playground Rock begin at the end of the buttress on your right and continue to the climber's Left.
From Playground Rock, continue climber's Left to the Prize Cliff (Excalibur 5.11b), a slightly overhanging, black and gold wall with a tree growing against the arete.
The routes on Playground Rock begin at the end of the buttress on your right and continue to the climber's Left.
From Playground Rock, continue climber's Left to the Prize Cliff (Excalibur 5.11b), a slightly overhanging, black and gold wall with a tree growing against the arete.
Classic Climbing Routes at East Gully, Playground Rock, & The Prize Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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