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L to R R to L Alpha
East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.
Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.
17 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Gate Buttress:
Only Human Var. 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
The Flakes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
El Chollo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
To Air is Human 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
El Segundo 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Christopher of the Everglades 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
El Pipe Dream 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Bloodline 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
Bloodline 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me. At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the nin...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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