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East Gate Buttress

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Ankle Biter 
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Christopher of the Everglades 
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El Segundo 
Flakes, The 
Gran Hermano 
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Negro Modelo 
Only Human Var. 
Plasma 
Sidewinder 
Stradler 
To Air is Human 
Wild Things 
Unsorted Routes:

East Gate Buttress 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 40.57387, -111.75163 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,125
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007
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Description 

East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.


Getting There 

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',7],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Gate Buttress:
Only Human Var.   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
El Chollo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
El Segundo   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Christopher of the Everglades   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
El Pipe Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bloodline   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Classics in East Gate Buttress

Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
bloodline

Bloodline 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
This is a fairly sustained route, but the crux is right above the second knifeblade. After you execute the crux you must climb a few feet above above the extruding knifeblade before you can get in reliable gear. I think the pins are solid, but you do risk falling onto them, hence the PG-13 rating. The climbing sequences are tip-top. At times the cams impede the jams, so I found I had to climb through some sequences and place my gear below me. At 2/3rds height, clip the bolt (new) and do the nin...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For East Gate Buttress
Photos of East Gate Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
parking, approach, and location of crag
BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag
newish east gate routes
BETA PHOTO: newish east gate routes
The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circled.  very approximated because I can't remember if you take the first or second traversing crack. sorry, its been a few years but when you stand at the bottom its clear which to do.
BETA PHOTO: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
Yellow = El Guapo <br />Blue = El Pipedream <br />Red = El Chollo
BETA PHOTO: Yellow = El Guapo
Blue = El Pipedream
Red = El Cho...
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By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 29, 2013

This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!