East Gate Buttress Rock Climbing
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East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.
Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
25 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in East Gate Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Gate Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Gate Buttress:
The Flakes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
El Chollo 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
El Segundo 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Gran Hermano 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Bloodline 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
The Flakes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : East Gate Buttress
My all-time favorite at the grade in Little Cottonwood, this route can be "Quite a grunt to get to and tricky to find," according to the Ruckman guide, but it's well worth it. Approach via Tingey's Terror to Tingey's Torture--traverse east 25ft from the bolted anchor atop the third pitch of Tingey's Torture--for a fun, long link-up or bushwhack your way up ledges to the base of To Air Is Human (.10d) or Under Fire (.10), granting access to the low-angle, splitter first pitch (5.6). The second ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
db on pitch 3 of Ripping Wall, belayed by Austin B...
BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
BETA PHOTO: Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...
BETA PHOTO: newish east gate routes
BETA PHOTO: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 29, 2013
This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!
By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 1, 2015
The approach information on Mountain Project neglects to mention that the Upper East Gate routes (This Aint No Disco, To Air is Human, Only Human Variation, Under Fire, Trivial Pursuit, The Flakes, and Wild Things) have a ledge out left that you have to traverse. The traverse starts after a big ramp that starts near Graying at the Routes.