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East Gate Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Bloodline T 
Cabeza de Pollo T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
Clay, Like Dirt S 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Ripping Wall, The T 
Sidekick T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

East Gate Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.57387, -111.75163 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,846
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bheller on Nov 9, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


East to south-east facing with loads of morning sun. Goes into the shade around 4pm. Not crowded, but it is visited. Rock can be kitty-gritty, but the traveled routes are clean and climb really well.

Getting There 

Park at the Gate parking area. Skirt up, around, and east of the Gate buttress, following the steep and sometimes loose trail that generally stays right next to the cliff itself. Allow about 15 minutes for the approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Gate Buttress:
Only Human Var.   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
El Chollo   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
El Segundo   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gran Hermano   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
El Pipe Dream   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Christopher of the Everglades   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Ankle Biters   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Snowflakes   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bloodline   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Gate Buttress

Featured Route For East Gate Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Bout to pull the corner Andrew Burr Photography

To Air is Human 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
Killer edge climbing with closely spaced bolts above a roof. Turn the corner and pull onto a red, crystalline slab for 3 bolts. Then a little gear in an easy crack and three more bolts up a perfect slab to the anchors of El Guapo....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of East Gate Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: db on pitch 3 of Ripping Wall, belayed by Austin B...
db on pitch 3 of Ripping Wall, belayed by Austin B...
Rock Climbing Photo: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
Rock Climbing Photo: parking, approach, and location of crag
BETA PHOTO: parking, approach, and location of crag
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
BETA PHOTO: The Flakes approximated with rappel stations circl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...
BETA PHOTO: Yellow = El Guapo Blue = El Pipedream Red = El Cho...
Rock Climbing Photo: newish east gate routes
BETA PHOTO: newish east gate routes

Comments on East Gate Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 29, 2013
This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!
By Derek West Newman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 1, 2015
The approach information on Mountain Project neglects to mention that the Upper East Gate routes (This Aint No Disco, To Air is Human, Only Human Variation, Under Fire, Trivial Pursuit, The Flakes, and Wild Things) have a ledge out left that you have to traverse. The traverse starts after a big ramp that starts near Graying at the Routes.

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