East Face/Upper Tangen Tower
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the final steeper section. Good stances...
Start from the saddle between the two Tangen Towers (a short bushwhack from the Royal Arch Trail). The East Face is about 300 feet long, and about the only place to belay is a flake around 160 feet. The first pitch is only 4th class or so, but the second is steeper and comprises the crux.
You can walk off the summit, then go down north of the Upper Tangen Tower, back to the saddle where you started. Do not try to descend south of the Upper Tangen Tower (between it and the 5th Flatiron), this is 5th class.
Pro and even belay anchors are scarce on this route. A light rack is all you will find use for.
Gino starting up the bottom section.
Looking down from the hollow flake that could be u...
Soloist about 2/3 up. We climbed further right th...
By Mark Roth
Apr 12, 2015
The belay flake/ledge is only about 70 feet up, but a 70m rope reaches the top from there.
By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2015
Not knowing better, I followed up the natural line on the right side of the face, where I saw a few (precarious) flakes to put some gear. The climbing is easy on average (5.0-5.2), except for a few moves on small rounded holds, notably, about 40' below the summit, right before a flake. The soloist in the photo turned around and downclimbed after being "stuck" at this crux. So, it's an easy solo, with a few committing steeper sections on small holds. At any rate, there is not much gear to place anyway.