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Tangen Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
DC Boy T,S 
East Face/Upper Tangen Tower T 
Hop, Skip, & Jump T,S 
Hoppy Birthday T,S 
In Focus T 
Pictureman Crack/Lower Tangen Tower T 
South Face Right/Lower Tangen Tower T 
Standard Route/Lower Tangen Tower T 
Stay Focused T 
Tangen Tunnel route T 
Thumper S 
Unnamed Hueco 1 T 
Zacchaeus T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

East Face/Upper Tangen Tower 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Gerry Roach and Barb Inyan, 1984
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: George Bell on Jun 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the final steeper section. Good stances...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Start from the saddle between the two Tangen Towers (a short bushwhack from the Royal Arch Trail). The East Face is about 300 feet long, and about the only place to belay is a flake around 160 feet. The first pitch is only 4th class or so, but the second is steeper and comprises the crux.

You can walk off the summit, then go down north of the Upper Tangen Tower, back to the saddle where you started. Do not try to descend south of the Upper Tangen Tower (between it and the 5th Flatiron), this is 5th class.


Pro and even belay anchors are scarce on this route. A light rack is all you will find use for.

Photos of East Face/Upper Tangen Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gino starting up the bottom section.
Gino starting up the bottom section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the hollow flake that could be u...
Looking down from the hollow flake that could be u...
Rock Climbing Photo: Soloist about 2/3 up.  We climbed further right th...
Soloist about 2/3 up. We climbed further right th...

Comments on East Face/Upper Tangen Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Apr 12, 2015

The belay flake/ledge is only about 70 feet up, but a 70m rope reaches the top from there.
By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2015

Not knowing better, I followed up the natural line on the right side of the face, where I saw a few (precarious) flakes to put some gear. The climbing is easy on average (5.0-5.2), except for a few moves on small rounded holds, notably, about 40' below the summit, right before a flake. The soloist in the photo turned around and downclimbed after being "stuck" at this crux. So, it's an easy solo, with a few committing steeper sections on small holds. At any rate, there is not much gear to place anyway.

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