First, climb the great 5.2 ridge route on the North ridge(s) of Three Graces, a superb climb which will undoubtedly be described by others. Set up the toprope from this anchor, and head basically straight up the face, moving slightly right and then left to follow natural weaknesses. Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet, as this section of rock is very fragile. Pull down and not out or, better yet, resist the temptation to climb this route after rapping off from Three Graces.
Note: I have heard, but not confirmed, that the entire Three Graces formation is closed to climbing due to the damage done by climbing on the rock (I'll take my small share of credit for said damage, after being unable to resist the temptation on this route). You might want to check with the Park staff, since not climbing there is probably preferable to a fine.
No pro. Somewhat loose and unpredictable rock. A toprope problem - 'nuff said.
|Comments on East Face/Three Graces
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 9, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a X
Top roped East Face of Three Graces after rappelling the Window Route.
However, I followed the features (crack) on the far north end of the East Face rather than going straight up, which makes it a much easier and more enjoyable climb. In several places the crack/ridge features peter out, and I had to move left and do some "face" moves, but that just made the climb all the more interesting -- in fact I finished the route by moving back to the middle of the East Face for about the last 15 feet.
The rock is still very sandy and brittle, so a climber would still need to toprope it to be safe. I would definitely not lead climb this, even if I were that good of a climber.