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Queen Anne's Head
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East Face/Queen Anne's Head T 
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East Face/Queen Anne's Head 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: George Bell on Sep 20, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Josh Hacker rappelling off to the north, towards t...

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  • Description 

    This is a fun climb but the descent is unpleasant with lots of poison ivy (but several options exist).

    Queen Anne's Head is a distinct piece of rock all the way down its East Face, the bottom of which is marked by a large overhang. On the approach, walk up left of this overhang, until you are at the base of a large left facing dihedral and only a few feet left of the giant overhang itself. Do not climb up the 1911 Gully to far when you approach, because if you reach the base of the 1911 Gully route you will be too high and north. It is useful to use a 60m rope for this climb.

    P1: Climb the dihedral (really a subsidiary crack left of the main corner). You can also climb out left on the face, but there is no pro. Just where the dihedral itself turns 5.4, you can get some pro in. Belay anywhere you can get gear. P2: Continue on up easy rock to a big ledge where you can move right (east) onto the main east face of the rock. There are two ancient pitons here. You can combine P1 & P2 with a 60m rope with a little bit of simulclimbing.

    P3: Scramble east onto the main face, descend a little, and head up the east face toward the left side of a small overhang. After placing a piece under the overhang, you can go up, or immediately traverse right (north) above the overhang. Reach a crack and belay where you can find a good anchor. P4: A short easy pitch leads straight up to the top. P3 & P4 combined are about 210 feet.

    Rap north 100' from some slings into a sloping jungle of ferns and poisin ivy (the 1911 Gully). Walk down this (worst part of the climb), passing several trees. You can rap from the two lowest trees, we just rapped from the lowest tree (only 40').

    The end of the top rap is very close to the base of the sport route "Blazing Biners". If you have the time, it's probably better to climb this route, and then continue to the summit of the 3rd, or traverse north to the base of the regular route.

    Protection 

    Light rack to #3 Camalot.



    Photos of East Face/Queen Anne's Head Slideshow Add Photo
    The first pitch.
    The first pitch.
    On the summit.
    On the summit.

    Comments on East Face/Queen Anne's Head Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 21, 2002

    The reason the 60m rope is useful is for the rap off.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Dec 16, 2002

    There was a large raccoon about 300ft up this route on Saturday. Definitely, the weirdest animal that I have run into on a climb.

    This is one of the better east face routes that I have done on solid rock with some simulating runouts. But, the descent has to be the worst std. descent in the Flatirons. We ended up doing 1 long rap and 3 short ones to get out of the 911 gully. There was no pioson ivy this time of year, though.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2003
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Interesting route with some interesting moves and gear.As a variation to the first pitch, you can climb 30' left of the "doggie paddle" holds on the initial pitch, instead doing a ultra-smooth 5.7 VS slab there. You move to the right to regain the normal line after perhaps 160 feet without gear, continuing 30' more to the ledge with pins on the top of P2. With a 70m rope, continue further still either East on some boulders to the E. Face, or straight up on some climbs and jugs on the South Face. This is 5.8 and is mostly good, but it is not protected from a ledge fall. Belay from a stance on the E Face with a piece of gear (230'/70m). From there, continue up the face past an occasional placement, including an old 1/4" bolt you can 'swage' with a stopper (dubious, as the cable will tug across an edge just below and load the stopper outward. Then up to the little flake/bulge. Rather than going up thorough the middle (5.4?) or up the flake on the left (5.6?) either of which is described by Rossiter in his Flatirons book, we crossed the roof toward the left and diagonaled up & right (5.6?) This was to minimize rope drag. 70m of climbing on this pitch will set you very nearly at the summit, presuming you ran your 70m rope to its end on the previous pitch.
    By James Garnett
    From: Bellingham, WA
    Aug 31, 2004
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    I followed Rossiter's description for this one, and I wouldn't recommend that anyone else do the same. Make your second belay just *past* the notch. If you follow the pro from there, you'll never find the bolt or a good third belay (it's not south of the overhang). I stayed on the left side of the face, which was definitely fun, but also definitely 5.6 friction. The rappel is a truly amazing photo opportunity for those who go first, if you stop on the slab below instead of descending all the way to the 1911 Gully: the following rappellers are framed between the 3rd Flatiron and Queen Anne's Head, with blue sky, the CU campus, and all of Boulder off in the distance.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 18, 2005

    We went up on this climb intending to replace the bolt that Rossiter's guidebook says you belay at for the top of the third pitch. There was no bolt anywhere near the southern end of the small overhang(as described in Rossiter's guide). There is a good thread for the main belay anchor at the left edge of the bottom of the small overhang, you can place a #1 and #3 Camalot to back it up.

    My partner followed the 3rd pitch and I sent him all over that slab looking for the bolt and could not find it. My recommendation, don't bother looking for it. You don't need it and unless I am going blind it is nowhere near the "normal/proper" climbing line.

    A nice route with fun moves. Too bad there is so much poison ivy in the descent gully.
    By nick moeckel
    Oct 19, 2005

    Regarding the descent: 1911 Gully obviously sucks. At night, as I found out, it turns into a hell-thicket of Blair Witchian creepiness. If that were the best way down, I would never climb this again. However Will Clopton showed me a much nicer descent. It involves three shorter rappels and is, in my mind, well worth it.

    Rappel only as far as the slab James mentions instead of all the way into the gully. Head up the slab (westish) until you find another rappel anchor, long slings around a block. Rappel west (short, maybe 50 feet) into the Ghetto bouldering area, and walk down. You come to a short cliff, 15 feet or so which you could probably downclimb around somewhere, or rappel off a tree ~20 feet back from the edge. From here scramble west and find a nice trail that takes you to the Royal Arch trail. Painless and ivy-free, yeah for Will.
    By Mic Fairchild
    From: Boulder
    Aug 14, 2011
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    This is a good route, and it made a nice linkup with 1911 Gully. I could find no evidence of Nick's alternative descent, but there are bolts on the summit, and an improvised rappel station on the slab to get down with a single rope.
    By Michael Yaussi
    From: Boulder
    Oct 5, 2014

    We rapped down the slab and then just jumped onto the east face of the Third where the East Face Left route goes around the roof. Went up a bit and did a fun/quick traverse across the Third to the East Bench. It was a joy to leave the jungle of poison ivy.