East Face/Onoclea  5.3

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.3 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  George Bell on Aug 30, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking down the lower part of Onoclea.

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

Scramble up the gully east of Onoclea. Pellaea and Onoclea (named for two genuses of ferns) are separated by a deep notch, but this dies out into a crack at the base of the east face which is only a few inches wide. It is easy to hike too far, because it is hard to see the tops of the formations through the trees.

Start the climb either up this crack, or up the face to it's right. This is the most unpleasant pitch of the climb as there are many pine needles on this face. I climbed up a scruffy face (over a dead log) about 20' right of the crack. After about 80' you come to a tree where you can belay.

Here the route becomes more obvious, you should see the separating crack widening to your left (if it is to your right you are off route on Pellaea!). Follow the crest up easy low angle rock past several small trees. In one section there is a smooth slab (crux!). Finally you will arrive at a small tree under a short, steep headwall. Walk left and crank over this headwall easily on big holds. Pass another tree, and wander on up to the summit.

To descend, scramble down the northeast for about 75' to a tree and rappel 25 north to the ground. From here you can hike east and back down the gully you came up (very easy and simple), or head west through the second notch north of Onoclea. From the notch, you should look down onto a huge chockstone and the top anchors of the two sport climbs "Rads for Rookies" and "False Gods, Real Men". You can rap these routes to the Fern Canyon trail, or continue north to the summit of the Nebel Horn.

Protection 

Light rack.

Photos of East Face/Onoclea Slideshow

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Warren contemplating the crux on Onoclea.

Mark and Warren on the upper, juggy section of Ono...