|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 330'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Dec 9, 2001|
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|Comments on East Face/Hippo Head||Add Comment|
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By Dean Carpenter
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Climbed this route today and the crack pitch is a lot of fun, it makes the grungy first pitch worth it. I rappelled 50 ft west from a small boulder that seemed a little sketchy. The boulder is on the ledge directly behind the summit block and it has some old purple slings with two old oval biners on it. I backed it up with a new sling and two new rap rings. I don't know if this is the rap station in the description, but it held for us.|
By Doug Redosh
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Oct 29, 2012
We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it.
We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder.
There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR the crack (50 ft).
Walk off (bushwhack) in the gully north of the formation. We had to do 2 short raps at cliffs, but Dave managed to find a way down by going into a spiral cave.
By Anton Krupicka
Jan 26, 2015
|I climbed this today and did indeed find a downclimb to the west. I always find it hard to rate downclimbs, but it felt probably about as difficult as climbing the 5.6 crack on the east face (edit: Roach rates this west face line a mere 5.3, and the hand-crack 5.5). On the descender's right side of the west face there is a series of holds that gets you down to an awkward-ish downclimb/step across to a boulder that puts you on the ground. I felt that move was the crux though some of the holds on the west face itself are a bit thin, too. Overall, a nice summit and a great hand-crack to get there.|