The East Face of the First Flatironette is generally climbable. Why is there only one route on this broad slab? Well, there could be dozens, but the climbing is all generally the same and wandering a little here and there keeps the general difficulty at about 5.2. The only real difference from one section to another is how continuous the climb might be or how many trees and gullies you might pass along the way. Rossiter suggests going up from the low, left-hand edge of the rock past a few gullies to the most continuous and solid part of the face. This is perhaps 100 feet up and right of the very base. I agree that the climbing from this point is great. Climb up and onward, tending slightly left past flakes, cracks, and pockets for a few pitches to reach the summit.
This is a fine climb at its grade and perhaps the best Flatirons introduction to slower parties and less confident leaders. Like any Flatiron, there are to be some runouts, but the lack of difficulty and frequent secure rests will likely keep even a skittish leader's head cool.
Descend by scrambling the ridgeline up top to a point where you can step, hop, or scramble off to the west. Next, walk north past a gully, past The Spy, and continue North down a hill until you reach a well-traveled East/West Trail. Head East on this trail to gain the cliff base again. This trail is pretty good and should take only 5-10 minutes.
A standard light rack.
|Photos of East Face/First Flatironette Slideshow
Starting low on the First Flatironette in December...
Behind the Spy on top of Flatiornette 1.
BETA PHOTO: We took a line through what appeared to be about t...
BETA PHOTO: I chose this for P1 up to the large block with the...
Early morning on top of the First Flatironette.
Dylan and his Grandma Diana on his first climb.
Greg near the top of the East Face.
|Comments on East Face/First Flatironette
|By Jonathan. D.|
May 5, 2003
Good First Lead. Not particularily memorable, but plenty of opportunity to place pro and very moderate climbing.
|By Corinne McKay|
Jun 7, 2005
A nice fun climb with great views, excellent if you're new to leading multipitch or getting back into it. Also, even on weekends when other climbs are crowded, you'll probably share this rock with at most a couple of other groups. We climbed the main part of the face (past the 2 gullies); the first 100 feet or so up to 2 large flakes is easy but somewhat run out, I think I placed maybe 5 pieces total. After that protection is much more evident and rock is lower angled, we took 2 1/2 pitches to get to the "summit" where you just downclimb about 10 feet to get off. It's a great climb even for beginners, but if you have a leader who is more experienced and a leader who is less experienced, the more experienced person should take the first pitch. Walk off via the quasi-trail to the North of the Spy (the next rock to the right)
Sep 20, 2007
Fun climb. My opinion: Don't bother with a rope, it will do you more harm than good. If you are not comfortable climbing this 'sans rope', then ya might want to leave it for another day.
|By Buff Johnson|
Oct 21, 2007
Still a good crag when the First is just too long & late in the day for a date climb. The cleanest line started uphill & offered a couple of really fun sections. Wish I had a 70m, but it was cool all the same.
Any excuse to get out and be near the Southern Sun!!
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 6, 2008
The hub and I did our first trad lead on the East Face. We started north of the two gullies per Roach's guide. Pro was thin off the deck but improved. On P2, I wandered right toward the exit for the last 60 feet or so, and while gear was thin to nonexistent there, the climbing was easy. The best part? It was a beautiful Saturday, and though we could see plenty of other climbers on the First and Third, we were alone on the Flatironette.
From: Thornton, CO
Aug 16, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c R
If you felt like this was over too quickly, as I did, you can walk 50ft down the gully between the Flatironette's summit and the Spy, and climb the Spy to its top.
A good climb to take a beginner up, but not a good beginner lead. Runout even by Flatirons standards, especially if you take the cleaner (more funner) rock.
|By Wes B.|
Sep 14, 2009
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c R
Fun route but run out (the way we did it). We did it in 2 pitches and I think we placed 3 pieces of protection in 300'. Great views!!!