East Face/Finger Flatiron  5.4

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches Consensus:  5.4 [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Warren Teissier on Feb 22, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Warren Teissier running it out on the second pitch...

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Back Porch Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire Details. All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right Details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is a great route, if it weren't for the grubby start it'd get 3 stars easily.

The route starts to the right of the rock gully that leads into the Mallory Cave. Because of this, it is subject to bat closures, so make sure you check this before you hike all the way there. The gully / chimney part of the route has lots of [loose] rock and a large-sized "death block" as christened by Roach. Watch were you step, there is definitely enough stuff there to hurt someone.

We did this route in three pitches with a 60m rope. Portions of the route have sizeable runouts but the difficulty in those sections is mild....

P1 - Starts some ten feet up and right of the Mallory Cave gully. Climb a notch covered with lichen and followed immediately by another notch. This feels a bit stiff for the grade and is somehow protectable. From here, work your way to the trees in a gully up and left and move left of the gully once you reach the tree. Run up the face until you reach the top part of the gully and belay when you run out of rope.

P2- Continue up the gully/chimney until you reach a bulge with two cracks (alternatively you can traverse right out of the gully for some neat face climbing and then back to the chimney under the cracks (unprotected for some 40 feet)). Put in a piece in the crack, and crank the bulge using perfect hand jams. Step around the death block and belay past it in the notch.

P3- Traverse up and left for a few feet and them climb straight up until you reach the top.

Rappel 50-70 feet North from slings located on the North side of the summit.

Protection 

Standard Flatiron rack.

Photos of East Face/Finger Flatiron Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: View from SE on the trail.	BETA PHOTO: Climb left to Mallory Cave, right & up P1 of FF.	BETA PHOTO: Bulge crux - easiest to pass on left.
BETA PHOTO: Margaret climbing up last pitch (P3) to summit.	BETA PHOTO: Rappel on N side of W end.