East Face/Achean Pronouncement 

This is an interesting & varied route; however, the poison ivy in the jungle of Skunk Canyon make the approach less fun. No lines here. Some beeeta: P1 feet. From P1 anchors at the trees, it's 180' to the trees of the P2 anchor. The NE Arete variation (P2 & P3) sports little solid pro & the crack is much better per Allen Light. A #4 or #4.5 Camalot is nice for P3. Some ancient KBs on the cable loop dangle. P4 you can get a couple slings around 2 flakes about 70' out, then clip some threaded rap anchor at 100', the belay at 120' with a decent angle can be backed up with a #4.5 Camalot, but it is better to keep on going to easy terrain and belay 200' out. P6 cross low under the overhang and you'll find some pro. The bulgy crux just L of a decent thread is easier and shorter than it looks; however, there virtually no pro above the thread. Beth did find a creative, smarter, less strenuous finish to the L of the "boy's" finish.

This may be better approached off the Dinosaur Mt from Back Porch. Way less poison ivy. Itch, itch, itch.

That rap anchor leaves much to be desired. Most of the slings are around a detached, albeit large, flake. One could add a long sling around the horn up and R from the slings. There is an old sling buried deep, up and R, to back up the anchor.

I can't see rating this one. Of the 100 or so Flatiron routes I've tried, this is the least coherent. Not even a link-up, really, and couldn't keep the rope out of the poison ivy. Just come from the south, and do the summit pitch underclings.

The poison ivy on p2 looks like it has been taken out of the crack by someone. Thanks! This is a great route, lots of variety and the summit pitch has some steep, exposed climbing. Way good!

Wandered up this recently, and the KBs have fallen out of the anchor atop p3, leaving just the one ancient pin. There is gear around though.

The poison ivy is definitely back, too, just leafing out. It can be avoided by taking the arete variation.

No more fixed pro at the top of pitch 3, but I left a small wire & draw for bailing. Not a very good route above this in my opinion, but then I didn't make it past P3.

Is it my imagination, or is the approach (more descent) to this a bushwhacker's paradise? I've been into Skunk a number of times, and the overgrowth seems thicker this year. The route is actually pretty good, although the last pitch will require some savvy routefinding. I stepped out and face climbed past the PI on route; not much help if you're roped. Another thumbs up for the recommended list from Gerry Roach Classics.

Pitons are not present at the top of P3. They are not needed anyway, plenty of pro. I linked the 1st and part of 2nd pitch in approach shoes, if it's 5.7, then just barely. I would recommend linking first 3 pitches into 2 pitches. The start of P1 is the crux so use your own judgment. P4 is 5.2 climbing BUT... very rotten, every hold is questionable, and there is no pro that will actually hold a fall until you get to a bomber threadable hole ~80 ft out on the ridge.

This was a fun climb, I liked the variety and position a lot plus I got rain/snowed on at my first belay, wet lichen sucks. Rapped down, then the sun came back out. We made it across the ridge where we had to bail due to nightfall. Double rope rap got us SE to the ground with a few feet of rope left over.

For Skunk Canyon veterans, I think this is actually an easy approach and one of the quickest climbs to gain from NCAR. Can't wait to get back and tackle the final pitch.

This is a great route. Here is a photo trip report from a recent climb of the east face.

www.brianinthewild.com/achaen-pronouncement---dreadnaut-prim>>>

This route is an awesome, hidden gem on a relatively unknown Flatiron. Thanks for posting that TR, Brian; I was hoping to see something from this day.

Yes, Skunk Canyon's foliage is going wild this year, but the approach isn't bad if one knows the secrets of the trail. The poison ivy is immense, many times larger than I expected! A microcam off to its right safely detoured us from this obstacle. The 5.8 section on the summit block's SE corner loads of fun, wish it was longer! Great holds there.