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Mikey's Island
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East Face T 

East Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C0 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c C0 [details]
FA: Jason Seaver, Matt Cohen, 5-22-10
New Route: Yes
Season: year round
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: jason seaver on Sep 18, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: East Face.

Description 

Start in the chubby flared crack at the wall's base and climb it to a ledge. This ledge gives the pitch its PG-13 rating, as the dual flares above it have devious climbing and protection. I had to hang here on my onsight effort in order to suss it out. Hence the current C0 rating. Conquer the flares, and the jam/layback crack above, and then jog left under an overlap. Climb the burly splitter out the overlap and up the short headwall above to arrive at a slab in an alcove. There's a crack in a corner, shooting out the roof above, which is the obvious finish to this pitch. BUT, in my cowardice, and doubt about anchors above, I built an anchor in the roof crack and traversed way off right to belay. I believe a bolt anchor just above the roof crack (and a no-hang free ascent) would make this pitch complete. As is, scramble off right and back down to the base.


Location 

Around the corner, to the East, from the other pitches on this crag is the steep brown and yellow East wall with a crack system meandering up its center.


Protection 

Standard full rack.

It needs a bolt anchor at its top.



Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Matt at the base of the dual flares, 5-22-10.
Matt at the base of the dual flares, 5-22-10.
Matt on the headwall splitter, 5-22-10.
Matt on the headwall splitter, 5-22-10.
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