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Mt Wake
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East Face 

East Face 

WI5 M5 Steep Snow

Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 15 pitches, 4200', Grade VI
Consensus: WI5 M5 [details]
FA: Brian Teal / Pete Lowney
Season: Winter / Spring
Page Views: 2,297
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008

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The Teal / Lowney on the east face of Mt Wake.

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


Straight up the Gut. What a Line! Head left at the Y. The origonal Route bypasses the 500' ice at the bottom by skirting in from the left. Reported to be a pleasent moderate outing with several steps up to WI5 / M4+.

For obvious reasons this route has extreme objective hazards.

Cold weather only!


Standard Scottish Rack

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By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2015

"Standard Scottish rack"

For those of us who haven't ever been to Scotland, this could use development.
By Dommelhiemer
From: Anchorage
Oct 15, 2015

a kilt, and a set of nuts... oh, and a warthog or three.
By Airbiscuit
Oct 15, 2015

Damn, stole my thunder, I always heard it as a picket and a set of nuts :)
By jgfox
From: Sacramento
Nov 2, 2015

I think Andy Kirkpatrick's modern Scottish climbing rack could work here considering the rating (conjecture on my part, I haven't climbed anything remotely this hard):

1-2 sets of nuts
1 set of cams up to Camalot #3
1 set of hexes/big nuts
2 knife blades (varying sizes)
3 lost arrows (varying sizes)
1 ice hook (BD ice piton or pecker)
3 ice screws (19 or 22 cm for v-thread, the rest is up to the climber)
2 pickets in lieu of warthogs

Not clean but *it is* a recommended Scottish climbing rack.

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