High on Grooved Arete - Kirkus' Direct Variation.
The main crag consists of three 600' buttresses (North, Central, South) skirted at the bottom by a trail known as the Heather Terrace. Many great long moderate mountain routes here, Gashed Crag
, Munich Climb, Overlapping Rib Route, Belle Vue Bastion
, and Grooved Arete being the most noteworthy.
The longer climbs tend to be broken up by grassy ledges, which in general does not detract, nor do the sheep! But rather add to the atmosphere. There are wonderful prospects of the Ogwen Valley and the Carneddau from the East Face routes.
Park on the A5 roadside pullout, then head up the obvious rugged trail which eventually passes through a gully and gains the Heather Terraces, most climbs start from this (Munich Climb and Belle Vue Bastion excepted).
Climbing Season For the United Kingdom area.
Weather station 3.9 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For East Face
Gashed Crag 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : East Face
A fun excursion up the buttress with a real grunter of a crux. Those old dudes loved their chimneys. There's some exposure too on the upper section. Goes okay in the rain.1) 100ft 5.4. Up a groove and blocks to a big grassy ledge.2) 80ft 5.4. Up a steep wall beneath The Gash, go right and belay.3) 60ft 5.6. Grunt your way up the chimney (crux) - perhaps removing your pack. Then head up a wall to the crest of the ridge above The Gash.4) 120ft 5.0. Follow the crest of the ridge in a great position...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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