Sugarloaf, East Face 

Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was the hardest climb in the world.There has been some controversy as to what was the first 5.13. This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in 1977 which would make that the first 5.13. Whatever!This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious.Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA