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Sugarloaf, East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallowtail T 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Sugarloaf, East Face Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7766, -120.3081 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 82,722
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006


50° | 30°

55° | 36°

51° | 26°

44° | 24°

44° | 31°
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This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
In the warmer months, this side of the wall goes into the shade early and offers some shelter from the blistering sun. On the other hand, in the colder months it's popular in the morning sun but becomes bitterly cold as the sun leaves it's presence.

Tons of varied climbing from 5.7 to 5.13c both bolted, Traditionally protected, mixed and spicy. It's all here.

Getting There 

Head up and right from the base of the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.3 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sugarloaf, East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Scheister   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Harding's Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 435'   
Lurch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches   
Farley   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Morticia   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Swallowtail   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Dominion   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Crushed Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Monkey Flower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Blue Velvet   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Fracture   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Telesis   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Taurus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pinch a Loaf   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Beast of Burden   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Opus 7   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Gallows Pole (direct)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
The Mini-Illusion   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Captain Fingers   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Grand Illusion   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face

Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Price on "Grand Illusion". Photo by...

Grand Illusion 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was probably the hardest climb in the world.This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13b/c. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in some style in 1977, but is generally considered 5.13a.This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious. Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go for it!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Sugarloaf, East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sugarloaf-East Face. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Sugarloaf-East Face. Photo by Blitzo.

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