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This face offers some exceptional climbs including "Grand Illusion".
Head up and right from the base of the rock.
25 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sugarloaf, East Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sugarloaf, East Face:
Scheister 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Harding's Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 435'
Lurch 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad
The Fang-Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch
Morticia 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Swallow Tail 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Farley 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Dominion 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Blue Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Crushed Velvet 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
The Fracture 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad
Telesis 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Taurus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Beast of Burden 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 70'
Opus 7 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Gallows Pole (direct) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Captain Fingers 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Featured Route For Sugarloaf, East Face
Taurus 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Sugarloaf, East Face
Taurus is an outstanding thin crack to lieback. The crux comes right off the ground, moving on good locks with smear feet. You can get a good nut, then small but solid gear. Pull the .11b crux to a stance. Then, climb the finger crack up, do some strenuous .10 lieback underclinging out left. Finish up a mantel and walk up the ramp to the chains.This route was soloed by first ascentionist Mark Hudon in the late 70s, so get after it!...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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