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The Praying Monk
Select Route:
East Face S 
SouthEast Corner S 

East Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Gary Driggs, 1951
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 4,242
Submitted By: Erock on Feb 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Heather Hayes on the opening moves of Praying Monk...

Description 

The bottom part of the climb is 5.7 the rest of the climb is 5.3

Location 

the monk is the tower that is above the headwall, you cant miss it, route is on the east side.

Protection 

several bolts, 3 belay bolts


Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Luke Bollinger climbing up the monks back
Luke Bollinger climbing up the monks back
East Face of the Praying Monk.
East Face of the Praying Monk.
Top of the Monk at Sunset.  Had to rap down the gully to the main trail at dusk.
Top of the Monk at Sunset. Had to rap down the gu...
Praying Monk rappel.
Praying Monk rappel.
Logan getting started.
Logan getting started.
view from the parking lot
view from the parking lot
East Corner of the Monk
East Corner of the Monk
The sweet rap off the top.
The sweet rap off the top.

Comments on East Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 9, 2014
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 4, 2006

You must be referring to The Monk's east face. It's one pitch and utterly safe if you make the start around the corner. Otherwise, it could be pg13.
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Mar 9, 2006

I agree. Did it a few weeks ago. No problem except for the slight runout on the third and fourth bolts...Dont let the exposure get to you...Theres lots of stuff up top to hang onto as you trust your feet... :)
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Apr 11, 2006

We started the route on a South facing start with a bolt and then onto the ledge with another bolt. You then step out and up to the third and fourth bolts.
By Brian in SLC
Mar 15, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

There is some fairly "bad" grafitti at the start to the original East Face route. Located low to the left as you step through the notch (faces kinda west-ish) in the chimney hallway. Meant to try to remove it, but, we forgot the scotchbrite or wire brush.

Great route.
By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
Jan 14, 2008
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

I also don't see why this would be considered PG13. There are bolts and they are new as far as I can remember so I didn't feel like there was anything sketchy about this climb at all.
By Nate Myers
Feb 17, 2009

This is nit-picky point, but what the hey. Based on the info provided by Greg Opland in his 1996 "Phoenix Rock II", the 5.3 east face route actually starts by scrambling up and left into the cave created by a large boulder leaning against the Praying Monk proper. From here, one can scramble up (Class 3)a ramp to the first bolt of the East Face route, clip the bolt, step out on the face and climb up. The boulder doesn't actually contact the side of the Praying Monk so it isn't a problem to flip your rope out of the cave and onto the east face. Starting direct from ground adds maybe twenty feet of 5.6 climbing before hitting the 5.3 climbing on the east face. Either way, a really fun climb.
By marc farra
Dec 29, 2010

Don't wanna split hairs and I am not saying this route is not very easy but it definetly harder than 5.3 after the first couple bolts it is probally like 5.6.
By LunaticDay
Mar 22, 2011

Just ran up the east face with a freind today 3/22/11. The climb was great, never felt any holds flex or dealt with much choss besides at the headwall. Solid climb, taught a first timer how to belay from the top. Great climb for learning and honing in your leading skills/anchor skills. 1 Huge Ibolt awaits you at the top, followed by two other Ibolts near the southeast edge of the rock which we used obviously to rappel off of. Stellar Climb just watch out for the fat chicks (jokes ofcourse) and ASU Dbags that infest the hikers trail.

P.S. Never experienced any issues on this climb with reguards to the runouts between third and fourth bolts. Even though their spaced. Their spaced for a reason, it's easy climbing just dont forget to bring some confidence with you when you climb!

Enjoy! and come visit your friends at AZ On The Rocks in Scottsdale

- Eric W
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route on solid rock. Total height is about 115' since a second tied into the rope at the base leaves the trailing end about 30' off the ground once he/she gets to the anchor. Of course, a 60m still gets you to the ground no problem, rapping the south side.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Dec 31, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

BRING MORE DRAWS! The book we were using only said 6 draws were needed but I think there was a total of 9 bolts from start to finish. I had to down climb and unclip one or two to make it the whole way.
By brettzenor
From: Scottsdale
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Loved this route! I could definitely do without the 30 feet of rope out when clipping pieces but overall secure and fun stuff! 9 draws are needed! Bring extra draws just in case otherwise you will only be making the run outs even more run out.
By wvoorhis
From: Knoxville, TN
Feb 9, 2014

There's now only one belay bolt at the top where there used to be three. There are still the two rap bolts off to the side, which I used to back up my anchor, but they're kind of far from the belay bolt, making for a pretty weird setup if you do it that way. Some extra cordelette or a cam could probably be used to back up the belay bolt.