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Mt. Whitney
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"Iceberg Spire" 
East Buttress 
East Face 
Mountaineer's Route, The 
North Face 

East Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Underhill, Eichorn, Dawson, Clyde. 1931.
Season: May-Nov
Page Views: 23,795
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 30, 2006
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Early morning alpenglow

Description 

From Iceberg Lake, scramble up to the notch just above the First Tower. Gear up.

Make the Tower Traverse across the south face of the Second Tower, and climb a short chimney (5.4-5.5) to the first belay.

Scramble or simul climb up three pitches of 4th - easy 5th to the top of the Washboard. Climb left up and over a tower/chimney (5.2-5.5) to a large ledge, and traverse to the base of the Fresh Air Traverse.

The Fresh Air Traverse pitch (5.5) climbs easy ground up then left to three fixed pitons. Enter and belay in a chimney. The traverse is exposed and fun. From the ledge, do not traverse directly left. Climb up blocky ground first.

Once in the chimney, climb up the Grand Staircase for 3 pitches, to the 5.6-5.7 offwidth pitch(es). This is the crux, then its easy ground up and right to the summit.

Be quick, efficient, and be careful of your rope - watch rockfall, for your team and others.


Protection 

One set of cams, 1-2 sets of nuts. Helmet!!!



Photos of East Face Slideshow Add Photo
East Face of Whitney
BETA PHOTO: East Face of Whitney
View from the Fresh Air Traverse.  Exposed, but easy going.
BETA PHOTO: View from the Fresh Air Traverse. Exposed, but ea...
Harz following the Fresh Air Traverse
Harz following the Fresh Air Traverse
Tom Slater topping out above the "washboard", leaving the snow behind but going into the cold shadows. <br />Photo Doug Englekirk.
Tom Slater topping out above the "washboard", leav...
The beginning of the fresh air traverse
BETA PHOTO: The beginning of the fresh air traverse
View from Iceberg Lake of the route, w/ line drawn of East Face.
BETA PHOTO: View from Iceberg Lake of the route, w/ line drawn...
nearing the summit
nearing the summit
5.7 off-width crack above the Grand Staircase.
BETA PHOTO: 5.7 off-width crack above the Grand Staircase.
Looking down from the start of the Fresh Air Traverse
Looking down from the start of the Fresh Air Trave...
Tower Traverse!
Tower Traverse!
View of the exposure after the Fresh Air Traverse
View of the exposure after the Fresh Air Traverse
Wayne Campbell starting the Tower Traverse, circa 1986
Wayne Campbell starting the Tower Traverse, circa ...
2 climbers on top of the 2nd tower on East Buttress of Mt Whitney
2 climbers on top of the 2nd tower on East Buttres...
Following the Fresh Air Traverse
Following the Fresh Air Traverse
Above the Washboard.  Climb over these blocks, then traverse down and right (west) to reach the start of the Fresh Air Traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Above the Washboard. Climb over these blocks, the...
Scott and me on the summit after climbing the East Face
Scott and me on the summit after climbing the East...
Top of the 3rd pitch coming out the top of the Washboard.
Top of the 3rd pitch coming out the top of the Was...
The "Tower Traverse."
BETA PHOTO: The "Tower Traverse."
Richard Lewis, Tower Traverse, 1987.
Richard Lewis, Tower Traverse, 1987.
Looking down from the start of the "Tower Traverse" pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the start of the "Tower Traverse...
Tower Traverse
Tower Traverse
"Fresh Air Traverse."  Superfluous protection was placed to prevent a pendulum.
BETA PHOTO: "Fresh Air Traverse." Superfluous protection was ...
Flex following the Tower Traverse
Flex following the Tower Traverse
The Washboard
The Washboard
Simul-climbing the Washboard - 1987 (note swami-belt & guess who was carrying the pack).
Simul-climbing the Washboard - 1987 (note swami-be...
Mt. Whitney, Day and Keeler Needles.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Whitney, Day and Keeler Needles.
Just Doug and I on the summit. An exciting day, but damn cold.
Just Doug and I on the summit. An exciting day, bu...
Climber on the fresh air traverse.
Climber on the fresh air traverse.
Comments on East Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 4, 2013
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 30, 2006

Climbed this last September and enjoyed it. Check out our trip report

The first pitch traverses, and it could be difficult to reverse if it rains. This gives the route a greater feeling of commitment. After the Washboard, you can also go up a crack on the right (shown on SuperTopo) which is about 5.7 and good fun.

The "crux offwidth" section is protectable with smaller grear, but a #3 Camalot may be appreciated. It's a pumpy section and can be liebacked, probably the easiest technique if you don't run out of gas. This section, and the entire climb, was originally rated 5.4!

One good thing about doing it in a day (we did not) is that you can go down the trail rather than the Mtneers Route. This route is no cakewalk and has resulted in many accidents by unprepared hikers. I think 2 people were killed or seriously injured in 2005 alone. The problem with doing it in a day is that the approach is non-trivial in the dark.

By Slater
Feb 15, 2006

I did this route with Doug Englekirk in October of 2005. We did the Mountaineer's approach (not too bad). Nice sunny day. When we started my thermo said 57 degrees. The Washboard was covered in snow but we made it by OK. Some of the other pitches were iced up in the cracks. By the time we reached the last pitch my thermo read 34 degrees. Spidrift was pelting me in the face and my fingers were completely numb. With windchill (30+ mph winds) it was way into the 20's. We topped out to find the summit under 1-2' of snow. Nobody else had made a climbing ascent up the east face that day. We were alone on the summit. On our walk down we found the 96 switchbacks completely in the shadows and covered in snow/ice. We made it down the switchbacks (very delicately) by dark without crampons or ice axe but I'd bring an axe next time. Others that day were not so lucky. One pair slid down the steep slope above the switchbacks and one man died. The other was stranded and had to be rescued. They too had no ice axe or crampons but decided to glissade down. Bad choice.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Aug 21, 2006

This route is a good canidate for a car to car adventure. However, if you have never hiked the N fork of Lone pine creek do not take this approach for granted. For Pro we carried 1 set of stoppers, a few cams and many slings. The opportunity to sling natural protection is unbelievable. I thought the crux was the exit from the grand staircase. Be careful if desending the Mountaineers route, especially in the dark (you better have a headlamp.)

By RockMonkey
From: Concord, CA
Jul 3, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

The "Washboard" can be done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope. However, if you do rope up on the washboard, it brings the total pitches to 13 or so.
I would also recommend an overnight at Iceberg Lake. Why rush this classic climb? From Iceberg one get's a great view of the East Face route.
Start early as sun only hits from sunrise to about 2PM in the summer months and belaying in the shade gets pretty chilly.

By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jul 21, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Just climbed this last weekend. Awesome classic route. Bring lots of slings because there are tons of stuff you can sling for pro. Watch out for the thunderstorms, they tend to come from the West and being on the east face you can't see them untill they are on top of you. Enjoy!

By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I thought the Tower Traverse and Fresh Air Traverse were memorable, but the rest of the pitches were not, except for the short crux chimney.

It's not as hard as it looks. There are many features inside the crack near the bottom and then outside near the top. Haul your packs using a bight of rope and it will be easy.

By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A friend and I climbed the East Face last week. Classic, fun route - more route finding and 4th class than actual climbing, but a must-do in the Sierra.

We started late in the day and didn't top out until after dark. There was still snow at the Notch and on the Mountaineer's Route, so we spent a cold night in the summit hut. I would certainly recommend starting earlier in the day - there's no sunshine on the route after 2:00 PM.

Take one set of cams, one set of stoppers, and a dozen slings. Don't forget your headlamp and a lightweight down jacket!

By Bonesaw
From: CA
Aug 10, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

If you continue traversing past the "loose chimney with a good belay stance" which marks the end of the Fresh Air Traverse in the Supertopo, things get even more exciting... some of the best moves of the day. Initially move slightly up and left out onto a small ledge. These moves are probably more like 5.8 and the exposure is unmatched. Just like any moutain in the Sierra, lots of options... choose your own adventure.

By camtron
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Oct 18, 2011

The East Face is more of a Mountaineer's Route than the Mountaineer's Route. The route is mostly 4th and 3th with a coupe 10-15ft sections of real climbing. The "crux Chimney" was easy but very loose! The Mountaineer's Route was scary to go down and way more dangerous than the climb (maybe beacuse it rained the 4 days before). I brought 2sets of nuts maybe used 3, mostly super parallel alpine cracks. A Single set of cams will be fine, no need for any thin gear.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 11, 2012

Read up on the history of this route before you do it and think about it while you climb-- it will give a greater sense of presence and ambiance to your mission.

The traverse pitches are spicy and incredible (for being so "easy") and really make the route memorable.

By Chris Blanchard
May 3, 2013

It's not talked about so I'm assuming it doesn't happen much .. How is the run out factor?

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 4, 2013

There is no real run out factor. The only pitch that may grab your attention is the very first one since you step onto the route and have immediate exposure (lots of exposure) for a balancy traverse.