This is a great route that climbs the Left (South) side of the East face of Fum. We climbed it with a 60m rope and were able to complete the climb in two pitches the first one being a full 60m.
If climbing with a shorter ropem you may simul-climb or belay at the flake described below (not that good of a belay though)
Start at the low point of the rock just right of the gully that separates Fo from Fum.
P1. Climb a left-leaning, shallow, hand crack that disappears after some 50 feet. This section protect with a couple of small and mid-sized cams. Once the crack disappears, continue up and left towards the East Face Southern arete. You will be able to protect on a flake where the South face meets the East face. This will be your last pro for the next 140 feet. Move back onto the East face and climb straight up the face. This is 5.5 Flatiron face climbing at its best. Aim for the trees on a large ledge that runs across the entire face and belay where you can.
P2. From the ledge, look for a weakness on the head wall on the left side (South) of the ledge, and crank up a 5.6 short section followed by some 30 easy feet to the summit. This section is well protected.
Descent: Scramble down to the Northwest, and find a crack system. The descent in this system is easy but for some 5.3 moves near the bottom. When we climbed it, someone had leaned a dead tree against the wall making this much easier.
Standard Flatiron rack.
BETA PHOTO: Fum with the south and north routes marked (left a...
Running out the big slab.
Starting the second pitch.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2002
I went up and down the descent route in running shoes today and found it rather scary and challenging. If that tree ever goes, it will be even worse. The rock is crumbly and there are no great handholds at the crux.
|By Richard Rossiter|
Feb 4, 2003
This is a fine Flatiron route. It is a little shy on gear options, but a more or less classic slab route. The FA was likely myself during the summer of 1988.
|By Warren Teissier|
Feb 5, 2003
Richard, the route appears in Roach's Flatiron Classics with a 1987 Copyright. So perhaps you did it sooner than stated...
|By Richard Rossiter|
Sep 28, 2003
So right you are. My book Boulder Climbs North (now out of print) was published in 1988. Considering that it takes about a year to get one ot these books published from time of writing, I cannot have climbed this route the first time later than 1987.
In truth, I have climbed this route just once (free solo) and I stayed a little harder left the line shown in the photo.
May 28, 2004
Tree is still in place foe the downclimb, a wee bit exciting.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 25, 2004
For cluckers like me who don't like 140 or 200 ft runouts, there is a way to protect this line (or a variation) somewhat better than suggested above. If you start in the groove/crack described by WT, you can get pro in the 1st 100ft (#3.5, 3, 2 Camalots, so-so #5 BD wire, so-so #12 BD wire (or ?hex), & then a black Alien (?screamer), then do the 'heady' 5.5 60-65 ft slab runout, double up with a yellow & green Alien where the cracks cross. You can traverse 20-25 ft R to 2 trees & belay. There are hollow flakes on the runout slab.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 16, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
I am not sure about the various options on this pitch and if there is a single obvious way to do it, but if you attempt it, beware. The route as I did it was indeed quite runout. I found myself in groundfall territory for more than half of the first pitch, which was 205' (a 60M rope, minus 3 meters for the knots, +5 meters of simulclimbing). After the first 40', I went 100' without good pro. This is what I call an X or VS rated route, not simply S. The rating seemed a little under for me as well. As a climber who routinely speed-solos Flatirons in my tennis shoes, I found this one a little ennervating without real climbing shoes. 5.6 is usually my comfortable limit for tennis-shoe soloing, and I was not very happy on this, that's how I am differentiating the grade. I suppose I could have wandered about more for gear, but it's not like I was just skipping placements. Perhaps 160' up, just after passing the crux, I ran into bomber placements in horizontals. Perhaps I should call this climb a good solo- because heck, if you aren't comfortable soloing it you should not probably lead it. Be advised to prepare for a slight sandbagging as well.
The downclimb has the many tree there, but I found that I could down mantle into an awesome handjam just where I needed the hold- more or less in the center of the down-climb slot. The crumbling rock to my left was less ennervating this way. I'd give it a secure and solid 5.6 this way? A stranded climber could in fact rig an anchor up top if the had to, back a ways around the summit tree. Pulling the rope might be "interesting" though- maybe rap off one climber, then he can spot the stronger climber who would free the rope and down-climb.
|By Chris Zeller|
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2007
Great route definitely worth doing!
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 28, 2013
Agree with Tony on the sandbaggery. I have no problems soloing most 5.6 Flatirons routes in my approach shoes. Glad to have climbing shoes on this one, maybe the hollow holds played a part. It gets a 5.7(X) rating in Jason Haas' book.