|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Jul 9, 2002|
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|Comments on East Face Right/Fum||Add Comment|
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 25, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
This route is probably not worth doing unless looking for a saner way to complete the Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum combo. The line we chose is close to this line but is straighter than pictured here. We climbed "directly to a ledge/gully" (described by Rossiter) to the first tree reached in the line of the topo and then moved slightly L to the line of trees and followed these to the top.This line warrants some warning. It is not 5.4, and it is definitely runout. Probably 60-70' (including some 5.6) til you get a good piece of pro, that first tree. Scruff for sure. Rope drag can mount without plenty of long slings. Best pro is probably the trees and these give many options for belays. The CU string tight around one of the upper-most trees has been cleaned. 280' in all. Interesting summit feature with the bigger-than-hottub hueco. The downclimb has one move that someone previously left a leather belt (now cleaned) girth-hitched around the tree to grab. Pro to #2 Camalot.
BBBomb, yup. Understand why Rossiter didn't give it a star.
5.6 s or 5.4+++.
By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Yup this is definitely runout esp. in the traverse section in the topo. Nothing but pure foot friction and an unprotected traverse--almost as dangerous for the leader as well as the follower.
Nice Summit. Better to do the route on the left. This one is very high quality.