East Face Right/Dinosaur Rock 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | unknown, some other dinosaur |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Apr 17, 2004 |
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Kimberly P2 approaching the top.
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Description This is an obvious chunk of rock that you encounter as you hike up the Mallory Cave Trail. This is near the current Dinosaur Rock sign just before Der Zerkle. Its lichen-filled appearance does not invite as many suitors as other E facing Flatiron routes. Nonetheless, the access is simple, the commitment is low, the protection is adequate. There are better and there are worse but for those who have tried most of the classic E faces, here is another to fill in the collection.
Follow the Mallory Cave Trail from NCAR until you come up to the NE corner of Dinosaur Rock. Start to the R of the extra chunk of rock. Wander up easy, slightly licheny rock past a tree. Continue along with face climbing just R of a dihedral. Continue up perhaps 60-80 ft where there are large holds for your hands to move up to the next higher plate (crux). Continue up on this plate perhaps another 20-40 ft until you find a small foot traverse onto the next higher (highest) plate. Traverse perhaps 15 ft L, then continue up to a reasonable belay about 170ft up. Long slings for the flakes & a #4 Camalot are useful for the belay. Move up face moves to catch a L facing dihedral that continues to the top. A black (tiniest) alien may be useful before you get to the dihedral. This pitch may be the same as the 2nd pitch of Rug Munchers 5.4. About 300ft.
Descend by down climbing about 30 ft to a large ledge with a slung tree. Rappel about 60 ft to an alcove or downclimb. It doesn't suck, but it is not facile.
Protection Light rack to #4 Camalot
Kimberly on P1 just after moving L onto highest pl...
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