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Der Zerkle
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East Face Right/Der Zerkle T 
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Unsorted Routes:

East Face Right/Der Zerkle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 390'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 984
Submitted By: Chris Mueller on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Suzy Hancock on P1 East Face Right.
  • Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Pitch 1: Start on the far right side of the east face and go straight up to a left leaning ramp that leads to a gully with a belay tree under the overhang.

    Pitch 2: (Rossiter) Climb past the right end of the overhang and head for the top. The first moves on this are unprotected 5.7 slab moves. (what we did) Head about 30 feet up the gully and look for a notch in the overhang. 10 feet past that is a boulder on the left side of the gully. Climb the Boulder, step over the gully and onto the overhang. Place a #1 Camalot and hand traverse right to the notch. Climb through the overhang via the notch. Be careful not to snag the rope in the notch. Climb towards the summit (middle 'finger') until you run out of rope.

    Pitch 3: Climb a short pitch to the summit of the middle finger.

    Descent: Rappel 100 feet. Downclimb to the south (class 3) or north (easy scrambling).


    Protection 

    Like all Flatirons east face routes, this one is a bit runout. A 'Flatirons rack' consisting of a set of nuts, cams (#.5 - #4 Camalot) and two big hexes is more than adequate. Make sure you have a few big pieces.



    Photos of East Face Right/Der Zerkle Slideshow Add Photo
    Nils Albert on P2 East Face Right.
    Nils Albert on P2 East Face Right.
    Suzy Hancock traversing to the rap from East Face Right, Der  <br />Zerkle, Central Flatirons to the middle summit of Der Zerkle.
    Suzy Hancock traversing to the rap from East Face ...
    Comments on East Face Right/Der Zerkle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 11, 2001

    Wow, Chris, is your variation really only 5.7? I can't recall any place going through the roof that looked that easy.

    We climbed this route today and followed Rossiter's description. True, the climbing is runout on the face right of the roof, but there are some good handholds around most of the time. Eventually you can get a piece under an undercling, and the crux is doing a few layback moves on this same flake. Then it is much easier.

    By Chris Mueller
    Oct 2, 2002

    It's been a while since I wrote that description, but I don't remember our variation being any harder than 5.7 (similar to the 5.7 start of the 3rd). It was a little tricky to find the moves, but once we found them, they were solid.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 17, 2003
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    I just did this and also found a 5.7 way to do it.

    P1: (60M, 5.7) Climb the far right side of the Flatiron as described in the book or above, for 30M to said ledge. At the right of this ledge, perhaps 10' right is a slabby section that climbs to a 10' long right-facing flake. Climb up to and through this flake, but near it's top, step left about 6 feet to the next flake left, which is continuous with the right hand edge of the overhang previously mentioned. Continue up this flake and then up the rock for 20M more past it's end and belay.

    P2: (50M, 5.6) Climb up from this, but rather than going into the gully to the summit, continue up and go right at the next ledge to intercept a nice finger crack, which leads up and left some 30' to the summit.

    To descend, scramble down to the south into a notch and then West down to a rib of rock to the back side. A trail to the South and East will return you to the base of the East Face.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 18, 2003
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    I should point out that the summit finish I describe is the North summit, not the South summit. It is a few feet shorter and the descent directions do matter. I feel that the N. Summit is a better climb as well.

    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 14, 2003

    Nice climb. Gosh, I think there are a bunch of ways to go on this rib of rock matching the general descriptions of East Face Right. Today, we did 2 x 60m pitches to the top of the R of the 3 summits. Decent pro. About 45m up was an interesting bit (though not overhanging) weaving L past 2 small R-facing dihedrals (the larger of which was +/- #4 Camalot size). There is an interesting exit off the R summit to the central summit block involving a fun, decently-wide stem across the notch/chimney separating the two, and then you can go up (to protect your followers) to the 2 bolt anchor and rap. Better than East Face Left of Der Zerkle, IMHO.

    By Doug Redosh
    Oct 28, 2013

    Did this yesterday. It looks like a hold might have broken off on the beginning of the second pitch, perhaps making it harder. It is unprotected 5.7 - 8 to that point where one can get a small TCU into a undercling. The layback itself is comparably easy.
    Also, there is a nice new 2 bolt anchor on the summit for a 70 foot rappel. There is no need to downclimb.