East Face Right
|63 page views|
The technical crux of this climb is likely near the ground with poor protection (or none) in some flaky rock, while the physical crux lies at the top on a steep but juggy hand traverse with poor feet. The first of these can be avoided, and the second can be well protected. The route offers some cool climbing at the grade, which makes up for the less aesthetic nature of the seldom climbed line (lichen, flakes, & pine needles).
The route starts out low and right on the East Face of the Fourth Pinnacle, near the North end of the East Face. Start up a slight groove for perhaps 8 meters past some poor rock to a ledge with a large pine tree. The ledge and tree are just right of the right edge of the main face. To skip this initial section, scramble in from the right side to the ledge.
From the ledge, find a hidden gully/chimney/tunnel behind the large tree and scramble up this. One can go inside the chute formed by a huge chockstone (comfortably, not squeezed) or climb up the outside of it like a corner system. After perhaps 15 meters, the chute and corner end. Belay here if you are roped up to avoid drag.
To the left, there is a incut horizontal crack. Traverese left for a few meters on this, protecting if on lead. The hands are good, but the feet insecure. At the end of the traverse, you will end up in a second corner system, now left-facing. Go up and left from this to the summit as for the standard East Face Route.
Descend via a scramble back down (North) to a scramble down and West to the base of the West Face.
A standard light rack with a few long slings. Or solo it.
|Comments on East Face Right