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Pigeon Peak
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East Face Pigeon Porcupine Quill T 
North Face Variation T 
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East Face Pigeon Porcupine Quill 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b A1-

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b A1- [details]
FA: John Catto, Ken Sauls, Max Kendall
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,005
Submitted By: Max Kendall on Sep 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: East Face of Pigeon Peak.


Start in the Matous dihedral, work left into a steep, open book with thin fingers. Directissma to summit. Steep dihedral is 2-3 pitches. Easy upper pitches to the summit.


Hike up to the East face from Ruby Lake. Find the obvious, large dihedral and the steep, open book buttress to the left. Start in dihedral and move left where it gets steep.


Small pro. A fixed piton at crux. No anchors were left.

Descend the standard route off the summit North and circle down around the west basin around to the south through a notch and back to the bottom of the east face.

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