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Shared By: Mark Roth on Feb 15, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

There are many options to reach the summit. The easiest and shortest way up is probably the North edge of the east face, but we came up from the meadow to the south. The south side provides lots of possibilities. You could get on the south ridge early and extend your journey a couple hundred feet, or you can walk up the gully all the way to the final 60 foot head wall. The easiest route up this last section is to walk left to the arĂȘte and follow a left-facing corner until it runs out. This corner has great protection if you actually bring a rope. When it ends step right onto the east face for a short scramble to the top.

Other options are the obvious wide crack/groove behind a tree. Gaining this groove feels harder than 4th class. It's a couple 5.5 moves while the tree is kind of spotting you.

A few other spots along this ledge have slightly harder but fun ways to tackle the bulge onto the summit slab.

Location Suggest change

When you pass under the East Gazebo, which touches the Mallory Cave trail, hang a right and wander up through the meadow. Downclimbing is the easiest way off.

Protection Suggest change

A small rack or just solo. There is an old 1/4 inch bolt up top, but I wouldn't trust it for much.

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