|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Warren Teissier on Aug 23, 2001|
|Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on East Face North Side/1st Flatiron||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Dan Franke
Jul 6, 2005
|Climbed this one last weekend, fun route, best if done with a 60m rope.P1- Started at the right side of a big flake, followed seams and grooves for 180 feet. 5 pieces of protection was all I could place, some of which were contrived. Belay set up just left of blobby feature in photo, at adequate flake with baby tree.P2- Headed up open slab past tree seen in photo, continued up until reaching bottom-most of cluster of trees, one of which appears to be dying cedar. 185 feet, 3 pieces of pro all I could place.P3- Resist tempting gully at right, pass main cluster of trees on their left side. No real pro after passing trees, however climbing gradually gets easier as summit attained. Approximately 100 feet.Scramble down boulders 15-20 feet on backside to dirt.Highly recommend 200 foot rope if you want to belay from good trees or cracks.|
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Nov 6, 2005
I climbed this last Friday for the first time, the route was really enjoyable. This was my first multi-pitch free solo, and I was cool headed the whole time. I found that the efficiency of being alone is amazing, especially not having to haul in gear. Anyway the route is pretty cool for anyone [whether] it is your [first] multi-pitch lead or free solo. Also I encountered 2 bolts with SMC hangers that were pretty much in line with each other, was I on route? [Probably] not, I always get off route.
Once at the top, I walked off and up hill about 50 feet to the northwest arete and climbed it to the top which was also a quite enjoyable route. I proceded to down climb the south east corner and back to my car.
All said it was a great day, I soloed 3 routes in the same time it has usually taken me to climb Zig Zag 5.7 with a rope and partner (not [implementing] simu-climbing). Also 2 of the routes were on sight. Car to Car 3 hours.
By Joey Wolfe
Oct 25, 2007
|I linked this to what i thought was called "the Sky line Traverse"(actually "North Arete") all free solo. Makes for a great day out!|
By Ralph Bodenner
Nov 23, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Soloed this today, starting with the smooth chimney/cave at the end of the approach trail. You can climb out of the chimney to the left and stand on top of a chockstone, then exit up to a gully on the right. From here (rap slings nearby), I moved left onto the face and, after some flaky slab traversing, met up with a crack that had a well-traveled look. Fun routefinding between featured sections and cracks to the ridge.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
|Overall a fun and clean route reminiscent of the first pitch of the Direct East Face for its edges rather than jugs. I thought the start coming in from the left side of a short corner was the crux, and probably 5.6.|
By Forrest L.
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
|I think started near the "official" start and went roughly straight up. This puts you closer to the far right side than onlined on MP. It was a bit harder and would have been mostly unprotected if I had brought a rope and partner.|