|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Davi Rivas on Aug 3, 2010|
|Comments on East Face||Add Comment|
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By Sam Prentice
Aug 26, 2011
Secor calls the east face 3-4th class. That corresponds to two distinct gully-ledge systems referred in Porcella and Burns as the NE and E face routes. They are separated by a towering buttress on the lower flanks and join above it (see beta pic).
The NE face (described above) goes 4th class over a friable band of reddish semi-consolidated shite. I suspect many mistake this as the east face route. It's a big face and doubtless there are many paths but I wouldn't want to downclimb that one.
The true east face ("true" in the sense that it is solid 3rd class glory) starts at the high point of the glacier. From there traverse right <20m around the base of an obvious, very small tower, then look up. The route unfolds in front of you like a sky pilot. This "variation" is only 4th class if you meander away from the trough of the gully ledge system.
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jan 19, 2012
|So-so rock quality, but fun scrambling up a very unlikely looking face. Plus amazing views and a great challenge on a historic route. Do it car to car in a day for mega leg-pump. :)|
By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Where the medial moraine ends head up steeper snow aiming just left of the toe of the face; there's a large ledge which will lead you up and to the right and into the shallow starting gully (large cairn marks where to go up), a tricky step/traverse will get you into that, then, as stated you can follow that up to the main gully. When in the main gully, staying left for most of the way (probably Class 4) seems to help with staying out of the loose and unnerving terrain. Bouldery and exposed moves near the summit.
Descend the same way with great care, and I recommend a helmet.
4/5 hours from Finger Lake to the start of the climb.
2 hours for the climb
1-1/2 hours for the descent
2-1/2 hours back to Finger Lake
It was an 11 hour day for us.
Jul 17, 2013
|Crux is dealing with the terribly loose rock strewn over the second half of the approach. Fun 3rd, cool hike in. 4:50 from car to summit.|
By Seth Largo
From: Syracuse, New York
Aug 14, 2014
|Be careful stepping across the moat to gain the ramp from the glacier. But if you do fall in, please look around for a red trekking pole, crawl out the glacier Joe Simpson-style, and contact me. Reward offered!|