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Chianti Spire
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East Face / Rebel Yell T 

East Face / Rebel Yell 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich 1986
Page Views: 7,363
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Sep 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Following the top of P1 - Left Side Start.

Description 

A 6 pitch line leading up striking splitter cracks. There are at least two starts possible, before joining at P3.

Traditional start:
P1/P2 - Follow the large left-facing dihedral with orange rock on the right, and grey on the left. The crack is wide, but protects well. 5.8-5.9

Left Variation:

P1 - Aim for the clean white left-facing corner to the left of the long orange, traditional start. One long pitch gets you up into the perfect finger crack and to a small stance below a chimney. Save yellow alien sized cams for the last 20 feet. 5.10b

P2 - A few well-protected chimney moves lead up to a horizontal break on the face above. Cut your feet loose and swing out wildly to the right, follow the crack up and right to join the original start in the major corner. 5.9

P3 - Up The lower angle dihedral with face climbing and flakes. Belay before the route forces you to move left. 5.7

P4 - Up the dihedral to a blind leftward step-across move. Keep working left to a ledge below a thin-hands splitter. 5.8

P5 - Up the obvious crack, going from .75" to 4" to a small ledge and bolted belay. 5.10

P6 - Continue up the 4" crack, using face features and the corners, and eventually landing out on top next to the summit block.


Location 

From Burgundy Col, descend down a short snow step and traverse south below the East Face of Burgundy spire, over a small snowy rib, and to the obvious east side of Chianti.

Descent is made via rappelling the route on fixed anchors. Two ropes are recommended, one might be possible. Generally descend to the rappeller's right.

Protection 

Gear to 4" with doubles from yello alien to #4 C4 camalot.

Ice axe will be handy for most of the year, all gear can be stashed at the base of the climb.


Photos of East Face / Rebel Yell Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the chimney on p2 of the left-side start.
Exiting the chimney on p2 of the left-side start.
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo, taken late in season, shows most of th...
BETA PHOTO: This photo, taken late in season, shows most of th...

Comments on East Face / Rebel Yell Add Comment
Show which comments
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 1, 2011

you probably want crampons to go along with the ice ax. that snow pitch off the col is pretty damn steep.
By Erroneous
Sep 16, 2013

Climbed this (excellent) route on 9-14-13. Some useful beta: There was running water available at many points along the approach as well as directly below the route. Axe seemed mandatory for the approach/descent, but crampons weren't necessary on the day we climbed it (sunny and warm). We did the left side start, but broke it up into two pitches, which is how I would do it next time as well (due to rope drag issues, primarily). Second pitch of the left start was the crux of the route for us. Strenuous but good fun.
By mravits
Aug 4, 2015

Great route! Just a note of caution: be careful when tossing your ropes for the first rappel from the summit, maybe even saddle bag them. We got our rope stuck about thirty feet above the belay for P5, which is also the 2nd rap station. The crack is wide and narrows significantly in the back and there were remnants of other ropes stuck in the exact same spot. Upon talking to other folks who have done the same thing, it seems like this is not an uncommon spot to get ropes stuck. We lucked out and worked it loose but it was a close call!
By Drewsky
Aug 13, 2016

Really nice route. Every pitch has high quality crack climbing in a variety of styles and the rock is mostly stellar. We pitched it out a bit differently than described here but I think this would be a better way to do it. The webbing at the bolted (rappel) stations could use some love or maybe be replaced with something with more longevity. The second rappel station (belay station for 10c pitch) includes one good bolt and a nut that while stuck well enough in the crack that I couldn't clean it to do so, really needs to be reset. Ice axes are nice for the snow but later in the season I could see wanting crampons. I think it would be possible in late season to mostly skirt around the steepest part of the snowfield in front of Burgundy Spire.
By aleday
Sep 17, 2016

Wonderful splitters, great variety: perfect fingers, to thin hands, to hands to butterflies [splitter camelot #4] and even a squeeze. Doubles fingers to 4 was good beta. As of 16 Sep 2016, there seemed to be quite a bit of fresh rock fall at the base from the granite apron below the route and from the neighboring gully to the west of Chianti, as well as large chunks of the surrounding glacier/snowfields liberated from surrounding slopes. Approach made through Silver Star drainage without use or need of axe or crampons, as though we did encounter some firm neve and snow, it could either be avoided with minimally circuitous walking, or traversed with care and mild trepidation.

That said, to those considering an approach through the Silver Star drainage, I can only label such a strategy as "not recommended." That said, the descent off the Burgundy Col looked pretty broken and loose. On route, much of the old tat was removed and replaced, but feel free to continue improvement.

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