If you can get past the approach and dificulties to find the start of the climb, this is a great scrambling route on great rock that takes you to the pin point North Summit of the Goose. There is no need to worry about the crowds on this one.
From the Mesa Trail, hike up to the base of Seal Rock. Some 20 feet before Seal a fork takes you left past the base of the Pup. Hike into the gully between Seal Rock and the Penguin and once above the Penguin head Left and up towards the now towering North face of the Goose.
The start of the climb is on the North face some 200 feet up from the base of the East face. Scramble up parallel to some pine needle covered slabs until a boulder blocks the way. Look left for a large twisted tree (corkscrew like). This marks the place where you will find three weaknesses that allow passage onto a large ledge on the East face.
We chose the lower weakness and felt it was in the 5.0 to 5.2 range but way exposed. After some 15 feet of this, you will find yourself on a comfortable ledge on the large East Face. Traverse south on the ledge until you reach a gully and head straight up on the right side of the gully (we never went into the gully).
After some 150 feet, you will reach another ledge. Head straight up on steep but featured rock to a small ledge below the final summit block. Climb up the summit block via its NE corner or its North side. The summit is barely large enough to accomodate one person.
Descent - Downclimb back to the ledge below the final summit block. Traverse South on the West side of the block and head west into a large chimney/crack) Notice a large Pinnacle West of you. Continue West on the North side of some broken boulders (easy but exposed and somewhat loose) and eventually pass the pinnacle on its southern side. From this, now easy ridge, you can hike left towards Fern Canyon Trail or right past the West face of Seal and down its North side to the Mesa Trail.
Standard rack although most parties solo this route.
Highly featured section.
View of the north summit (route top out) from the ...
First pitch (original start).
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 11, 2002
There is a direct start to this route, although you may want a rope for it. Start at the far right (north) side of the East Face. Here there is a big ledge and if you walk south you can look up at the overhangs on the East Face. This variation does not follow this ledge, however. Climb a slab right of the overhangs and figure out how to get past a small roof to a second slab which leads to the same gully in the route description, follow the rest of the route to the top. This variation is 5.4-5.5.
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 11, 2013
Unless you really like lichen, I would recommend the direct start.