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East Face / Der Freischutz 
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East Face / Der Freischutz 

5.0

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 350 feet
Consensus: 5.1 [details]
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Dec 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Erin, 3, near the crux on one possible variation o...

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Description 

To reach the East face route, follow the Mallory Cave trail as it switchbacks between Dinosaur Rock and Der Zerkle. The trail will pass within a few of the East face once you are West of Dinosaur Rock (Der Freischutz is West of Dinosaur Rock).

Start at the base of the East face next to the dihedral formed by blocks on the North side of the Overture and Freischutz. Head up following the line of least resistance on the left of a gully for some 200 feet. Negotiate some large blocks via cracks at the top of the gully and head right for the summit.

Descent - downclimb the Free Shot route or scramble down some 30 feet (5.2 awkward) to the North and East via a V groove.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of East Face / Der Freischutz Slideshow Add Photo
Hike down from trail to start of climb is the hardest part.

Hike down from trail to start of climb is the hard...

Naoki's last hold on the first pitch.

Naoki's last hold on the first pitch.

View of Freischutz from green water tower near NCAR.

BETA PHOTO: View of Freischutz from green water tower near NCA...

Happy Joan after completing four and final pitch.

Happy Joan after completing four and final pitch.

Guidebook's alcove start to E face, however less desirable than The Overture start straight from trail.

BETA PHOTO: Guidebook's alcove start to E face, however less d...

N side downclimb crux section (blind but good holds), then wiggle down chimney ramp (lower left), then exit W thru tunnel.

BETA PHOTO: N side downclimb crux section (blind but good hold...


Comments on East Face / Der Freischutz Add Comment
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By Alan C
Oct 1, 2006

Climbed this route with Colorado Mountain Club (Chris, Naoki, Michele, Joan and myself) in two rope teams and four pitches. It was a wonderful day, warm, no wind, and sunny skies. DIA was clearly visible.

Our line up to summit ranged was mostly 5.0 and class 4 although we did find some 5.3-5.4 crux moves on the later pitches. In many places the rock is frazzled and I had a hold break off in my hand.

The rap down requires some skill as the rock as the desired path, the fall line, and the rocks do not match up well. Down climbing is also possible as described.

Alan C