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Peeper's Rock
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East Face - Peepers Rock S 

East Face - Peepers Rock 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Peeper's Rock with useable bolts. I don't count t...

Description 

Plenty of sideways movement on greasy holds makes this one of the toughest 5.9's in the bay area. Also, it is a tid-bit run out, so its not a good lead unless you're comfortable on at least .10 i'd say.The route is located opposite of the ocean, so it doesn't depend on the tide.

Protection 

2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. Presently, the only established way to the top of rock.


Photos of East Face - Peepers Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Sallie showing some fancy footwork on Peepers.
Sallie showing some fancy footwork on Peepers.
Paul and I climbed this route again for the second time. Monika took some great pictures!!!  We still agree that this is a rather difficult 5.9, mostly because the first bolt is Waaaaayy up (ifyou are leading, falling would not be desireable)high if you are leading and the holds over the top aren't exacly obvious.  They are there, but not obvious.
Paul and I climbed this route again for the second...
Sallie on Peepers Rock
Sallie on Peepers Rock

Comments on East Face - Peepers Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 19, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'd agree that this was a tough route for a 5.9. The traversy moves in the middle of the route were interesting, and it took some thought to figure out how to get from the first clip to the second.

Hold on for the first clip
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 19, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

one more test, these should be deleted tommorrow by me.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
May 12, 2003

I thought that this would be a fun way to end the day and thought I would cruise it. I found it very tiring and not obvious. It was fun but definitely a challenge. I'm glad others found this to be a tough 9 also!
By Risley
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This was a difficult 5.9 at best. I think the scariest aspect is that the first bolt is about 12-14 feet up but the ground falls away to the right making a fall very perilous. The hand holds were not so easy to find as were the footholds, especially at the bottom. More than once, I had to do a double take to figure out where I was going. After the first bolt, the route became more fingery and I migrated to the right side to get over the top. Don't worry about locking beaners or super tech gear, the route is too short, just a couple of quick draws and a strong partner to spot you at the base....
By Brandon Bateman
From: Montrose, CA
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Just lead this route yesterday because i figured it would be a good top-rope for my less experienced friends who tagged along. The lead was a little nerve racking up to the first bolt and the whole climb seemed a little technical for 5.9 climbing. Overall it was a fun and interesting climb. There are many different ways to climb the route and it was fun to see everyones different interpretations of the holds and moves!