|787 page views|
taken from ground looking up at the top
the hardest part is about 10 feet after you begin your climb. make your way to the first ledge which is about 15-20 feet from the base. next make your way up about a 6 foot face, and finally the final face to the top. decent hand and foot placements most of the way to the top. this is a climb that me and my buddy's will continue to do. it is an extremely fun climb, well worth the hike to climb.
the route is on Cleopatras needle. #52/53 in the guidebook. the reason i put 2 numbers is because there are 2 variations to do this climb. a crack to the right that finishes on the southeast side route. the easiest way to get to the needle is hike on the west bluff trail from the boat landing when you get to a little switchback in the trail look for a bench and head towards the lake. you will than be able to see Cleos needle and should be able to find an access route down.
i had 10 quick draws and 2 full sets of nuts. for most of the placements i used mainly mid range nuts, size 3 to 7. there is a really nice bolt on top of the climb that is stainless and swivels around, this makes it nice so you can repel down on any side. it seamed in great condition, i am a bigger guy and it held me no problem.
base of climb
view up from the first ledge
view from top
downclimbing to repel
|Comments on East Dihedral
|By Dan Pfaff|
Jul 10, 2010
Must be a typo. This is a 2 pitch climb.
Jul 13, 2010
yeah sry it was a typo! it could be done as a 2 pitch if you wanted to but it can be done as a single pitch.