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East Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TM Herbert, Gordon Webster, 1966
Page Views: 5,490
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Apr 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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East Crack.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux comes on the second pitch when climbing over several bulges. The bulges are short but sweet with easier climbing in between. A good route to break into the 5.8 realm. The route meets up with several other routes at bushy ledge. Expect crowds on most sunny days.

Location 

The climb starts just to the left of bears reach and follows a double crack system. Walk down the decent trail on the back side of the route.

Protection 

Cams, .5" - 3" Nuts, 1 set.


Photos of East Crack Slideshow Add Photo
After waiting in the sun for quite some time due to several parties clogged higher on the route, a little shade is a welcome relief
BETA PHOTO: After waiting in the sun for quite some time due t...
Brett following up the crux bulge on pitch 1 of east crack
BETA PHOTO: Brett following up the crux bulge on pitch 1 of ea...
After the crowds clear Brett gets to start the 2nd pitch of East crack
BETA PHOTO: After the crowds clear Brett gets to start the 2nd...
Checking out the small roof on the first pitch of east crack
BETA PHOTO: Checking out the small roof on the first pitch of ...
Brett placing some pro before attempting the crux bulge section on the 2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: Brett placing some pro before attempting the crux ...
Brett working his way up the 3rd pitch just under the small roof crux
BETA PHOTO: Brett working his way up the 3rd pitch just under ...
Continuing through the series of bulges on east crack
BETA PHOTO: Continuing through the series of bulges on east cr...
Eric chillin' on the belay ledge of East Crack.
Eric chillin' on the belay ledge of East Crack.

Comments on East Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 12, 2007

I've always liked this one better than Bear's for some reason. Maybe because it doesn't have the hype? Fun crux moves.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

I kinda thought it was a filth pile when I did it, but that was 30 years ago and it could be nice and clean now.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Oct 16, 2011

We were going to end out long weekend at the Leap by getting on Bears Reach or Haystack, then had a good conversation with a nice couple over some beverages at Strawberry Lodge the night before. The guy (sorry dude, didn't get your name) told us to do East Crack instead. Said it was better than both.

The first pitch was great. Supertopo calls it 5.6 with a 5.7 bulge (which looks a lot more like a roof than a bulge). In reality, the moves were quality all the way up to the roof, in the 5.7 range, and turning the roof was one of the easier parts of the pitch in my opinion.

The second pitch starts off mellow, then gets spicy for a couple of section of 5.8, the first, and the crux of the route IMO, a very well-protected bulge, with more than one way around it. The second section of 5.8 was more sustained but somehow more casual. Both are very easy to protect. In fact, pro (especially nuts) is absolutely bomber on the entire route.

The third pitch is shared with the other routes leaving bushy ledge, and includes a fantastically fun "hidden" hold to get past what would otherwise be a move much harder than 5.7. You'll find the hold without any more beta than that. It's not that hidden. All in all a great end to a fantastic weekend. My partner and I agreed that East Crack was as good or better than Surrealistic Pillar.
By Pat H
From: Berkeley, CA
Jun 5, 2013

The supertopo shows a bolt and piton at the top of pitch 1. I found neither of those on the route and would guess they were removed.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is fun and the pitch 2 crux bulge protects well and is not hard. I seem to recall having to get good hands and pulling up to get through it.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2013

Great climb. Solid 5.8. Easier than Haystack. More consistent at the grade as well.

Better than Bear's Reach for me. Probably because I'm a crack addict, and I did Bear's Reach exhausted (it has burly moves!)
By Mike Grainger
From: Waterloo, ON Canada
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for the comments here steering us toward this quality route. The first pitch has good quality 5.7 climbing. Pitch 2, which I lead, demands solid 5.8 moves on the cruxes, but the entire pitch protects well, so it is relatively easy to commit to the moves needed to get past the bulges. Pitch 3 is pretty casual, except for the bulge with the not so secret hold. If I hadn't known it was there, I would probably not have continued reaching so high and would have had to make some harder moves. Definitely a very worthwhile outing, particularly if you get the lead on pitch 2