East Corner 

This really is a fine route and worth doing, even if you have to aid the crux. The corner leading up to the roof is fun and sustained slick corner work around .9 or .10a.

The first pitch is worth doing as well, I thought it was pretty interesting, and a challenging .9.

also, I'd supplement that gear rack with more small stuff. Double blue and green aliens would be really nice to have.

A beautiful line. The supertopo guide lists microbrew as a thin crack traversing in from the right.

For the first pitch I did a mediocre 5.7 directly up to the ledge between microbrew and Haystack. It was ok but dirty in a few places. Also the pro got sparce just below the ledge so I did a little traverse out right on the face and then back to the ledge.

The 2nd pitch corner felt harder than the .10a that everyone is talking about to me but the roof felt more .11a like. Make what you will of that. I agree with caughtinside about the small gear and would even recommend triples in the green and yellow aliens. I usuallly scoff when a route says doubles on nuts but I used up every single one of mine on this beautiful pitch.

I also belayed about 10ft up from the old 1/4inch bolts on small hand size pieces and could see the follower alot better.

Hey Karsten, that corner leading up to the roof is thin, polished and pretty insecure feeling, I wouldn't argue with someone who said it was .10a+. heh. Especially if the grass is thick in the crack. I think I had the first ascent of the season in 07, and trying to rand smear in the corner, crushing grass and getting the rubber wet makes it tougher!

Old 1/4" bolts? I don't remember them being bad. YOu're talking about the double bolt station shared with pop bottle, up the corner and just left?

I could have swore they were 1/4 inch but then again I was a little spent and the wind was really kicken up that day at the top. Plus aren't 1/4 inch bolts all bomber??? ;}

Rules of thumb:

1/4": bad. 3/8": good. 1/2": excellent. 5/8": sandstone (and still crossing fingers!) or used to hold buildings to their foundations in earthquake retrofits.

1/4" bolts are not a standard anymore, they're usually somewhat rusted out at this point, and look like they're a little bent.

Do you know if the anchor bolts atop p2 of this climb are 1/4" or are you just speaking generally?

If they are indeed 1/4", I will try to pull and replace them with modern hardware this summer.

Was responding in general terms, and hopefully to dispel the question of whether or not 1/4" bolts are bomber (NO!). I have no idea if the bolts on the top of p2 are 1/4". It might be worth looking into. Anyone else know?

Climbed this route last month, the belay has 2 solid 3/8" and a lone 1/4", which looks pretty solid...it holds, so that has to count for something...

Just attempted this yesterday. The corner on the second pitch is very thin and balancey before the roof. Supertopo calls it .11b and Falcon calls it 10d, I'm inclined to agree the former. In any case, it is a stunning and inspiring line with good, albeit thin, gear.

Bring lots of little cams and nuts. I didn't place anything bigger than a .75 camalot. Traversing right under the roof for 5 feet or so (to a drilled pin) puts you on Out to Lunge, 10d--turn the roof then get back in the corner. Getting to the roof is definitely harder than p1 of sinbad/herbert or surreal pillar direct. A 3.5-star route.

If you mistake P1 of East Corner for P1 of Haystack you will end up wondering why P2 of East Corner seems really, really hard for 5.8! Retreating from the crux overhang and finishing up P2 of Pop Bottle seemed like a good idea.

The corner is one of the best pitches at the leap! Warning: it can be running with water early season.. making it very full value (crux felt like Moratorium wet). I don't see how you could aid it at 5.10a... maybe it was the wetness, but it felt like 5.10c/d gaining the roof with small gear at your feet.. heads up for sure, I wouldn't head up there if 5.10a was your limit.

As for April 20 there was a big snow patch at the mid-way ledge (10'x6'), it was hard to keep our rope dry.