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East Colfax
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Wild Bore 

East Colfax 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: Kevin Capps on Jul 22, 2011
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Laura, following on East Colfax.

Description 

East Colfax starts out with some easy climbing that leads to a small, overhanging crux section, continues on some easier terrain that leads to more balanced climbing, and finishes on some beautiful sidepulls over a small roof to get to the anchors. If you diverge from the route, you may encounter not so good rock.


Protection 

8 bolts, #0.5 & #2 Camalot, + 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of East Colfax Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin at the first bolt on the upper half.
Kevin at the first bolt on the upper half.
Comments on East Colfax Add Comment
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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 22, 2011

A few comments; a 70m rope is nice (60m, tie the end), the route is still a bit dusty and rusty but will clean up, the 0.5 cam is for protecting [mid]-route and the #2 is for the hand crack near the top, and have fun.

By Luke Childers
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Did this on TR with the man with the FA... Kevin and found the route very entertaining. Some unusual but enjoyable climbing past the 1st steep lower headwall then found myself pulling out onto this fantastic exposed arÍte!! The top out was odd for me and still a bit dirty, but with all new lines with time more ascents, it will clean up nicely. Climbs better than it looks as well. It kinda ended my day 'cause it's kinda epic!!! But well worth a visit. Also, Kevin, your route description say it's the only route on the wall.... With the addition of the new 5.7 "Wild Bore", you may want to update that info, sir.... Good climbing with you today, man. See you when you get back in town!!

By Luke Childers
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Oh by the way, Kevin.... You couldn't have given that line a better name, man!! It's fully East Colfax!! Great work!

By chinos
Nov 7, 2011

Hey Kevin, nice FA. I was looking at this when we last climbed. Good to see you guys are still at it! Hope to climb again in the future!

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 20, 2013

Hmmm, perhaps a 2 foot strip of duct tape to pad that sharp edge just below the 6th bolt might ease the mind of the weak.

Also, there is now a 2 bolt anchor with links and biners at halfway.

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 22, 2013

I put an extra bolt in halfway for an anchor so if people didn't have cams on them they could just do a quick 11a pitch and lower down. Not the best route in the world but kinda fun I guess, haha.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

I made it through the lower part, which I thought was the crux, but bailed halfway up the top section. It seemed too risky to make some of the clips. I brought gear and wish I had more. Has the route changed?

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Sep 9, 2013

Not that I know of. A few of the moves going up and right after the ledge halfway are a little forced, but the moves past that are fun. After putting a #2 Cam in the upper crack you kinda move out right towards the arÍte then back up and left over the small roof for the final crux.

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jan 27, 2014

When I put the first set of anchors in, there were fixed biners on the quicklinks. Now that someone has stolen them, I do not plan on investing anymore money into this climb. If anyone climbs this to the first anchor, they may want to consider another set of quicklinks so their rope doesn't get twisted.