|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Herb and Jan Conn, July 1949|
|Submitted By:||Tyson S Arp on Apr 11, 2007|
|Comments on East Chimney||Add Comment|
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By Tyson S Arp
Apr 11, 2007
|You'll find a few more photos of the route here.|
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
I did this route last year with a friend. Didn't use any gear larger than a number 3 Camalot. A Number 4 wouldn't have been bad near the top of P1. We didn't any beta on this route at the time, and unaware I could sling some things higher, I foolishly set up an anchor in the top of the chimney just before it opens up to the lower summit. It was super bomber, and super awkward. P2 is awesome, with some exposure to it. In the "conn cavity," you can fit some gear in a slot between the crystals here, maybe a .5 camalot. My second fell here, but all was well as the hardware at the summit is good.
Side note: An old wild country rock was left at the top of the lower summit somewhere, consider it booty.