|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Oct 1, 2008|
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|Comments on East Chimney, Upper Deviation||Add Comment|
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By Mark Roth
Jul 30, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wholly %##!!! This chimney looks so easy from the bottom, but it turns out to be pretty hard and scary. Harder than Hatch, Rehatch, and Taking Care of Business all put together! Might as well solo, 'cause the only gear comes after the many cruxes. A #5 would probably help 2/3 of the way up. I had a tipped out #4 on mossy rock, and it was the only decent placement on the whole pitch. It probably wouldn't feel hard if the rock was solid, but it's not.
We turned left at the top of the chimney and climbed the west-facing crack onto the south summit then did a scary jump across to the east face of the main summit tower. Did we miss a way to get out there from inside the chimney?
There is no reliable anchor up top, just really loose blocks, so I downclimbed the way we came up and my partner rapped off to the north using me as an anchor. There is a nice, rounded groove for the rope that made this work well....