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Deviation, Upper
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East Chimney, Upper Deviation T 

East Chimney, Upper Deviation 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 1, 2008

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Looking down the chimney.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Upper Deviation is split into two pieces by a chimney, this is the route. Climb the chimney with little protection to the notch and belay here. A short second pitch climbs north out of the notch and back onto the east face to the summit.

The first pitch is more of a high-angle gully than a pure chimney. It is unusual and receives a star for this.

Descent 

A short rappel west from the summit.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 or #4 Camalot.


Photos of East Chimney, Upper Deviation Slideshow Add Photo
Mark belays in the notch.
Mark belays in the notch.

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