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Deviation, Upper
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East Chimney, Upper Deviation T 

East Chimney, Upper Deviation 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: George Bell on Oct 1, 2008

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Finishing 120 feet of decomposing chimney. More l...

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Description 

The Upper Deviation is split into two pieces by a chimney, this is the route. Climb the chimney with little protection to the notch and belay here. A short second pitch climbs north out of the notch and back onto the east face to the summit.

The first pitch is more of a high-angle gully than a pure chimney. It is unusual and receives a star for this.

Descent 

A short rappel west from the summit.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 or #4 Camalot.


Photos of East Chimney, Upper Deviation Slideshow Add Photo
Mark belays in the notch.
Mark belays in the notch.
Looking down the chimney.
Looking down the chimney.
Above the first unprotected squeeze chimney.
Above the first unprotected squeeze chimney.
Looking out the top of the cool chimney.
Looking out the top of the cool chimney.

Comments on East Chimney, Upper Deviation Add Comment
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By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jul 30, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Wholly %##!!! This chimney looks so easy from the bottom, but it turns out to be pretty hard and scary. Harder than Hatch, Rehatch, and Taking Care of Business all put together! Might as well solo, 'cause the only gear comes after the many cruxes. A #5 would probably help 2/3 of the way up. I had a tipped out #4 on mossy rock, and it was the only decent placement on the whole pitch. It probably wouldn't feel hard if the rock was solid, but it's not.

We turned left at the top of the chimney and climbed the west-facing crack onto the south summit then did a scary jump across to the east face of the main summit tower. Did we miss a way to get out there from inside the chimney?

There is no reliable anchor up top, just really loose blocks, so I downclimbed the way we came up and my partner rapped off to the north using me as an anchor. There is a nice, rounded groove for the rope that made this work well....
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