Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jake Bender, Dave Baker, Jan 1970 |
Page Views: | 3,042 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | jbak x on Jul 29, 2010 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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There is an annual closure from Jan 1 - Apr 30 prohibiting travel more than 400' off of established trails due to bighorn sheep lambing season. The current order can be found here ( fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…) but will be extended when the current order expires.
Description
From my old Summit Hut guide:
At a point 3.2 miles up the Pima Canyon trail, looking up-canyon, a white rock wall on the west side of the canyon will be noted. The route lies on the right skyline of this wall as viewed from the aforementioned point on the trail. From the trail, any one of a number of bushwhack routes lead to the base of the buttress.
#1. Attack the buttress directly rather than in a chimney to the left. Fifty feet of climbing brings you to a classic jam crack which is followed to Bender's Balcony, a huge ledge easily visible from below.
#2. Bolts protect 40 feet of climbing to a short crack. Now traverse right to a chute and climb up to a belay at a tree.
#3. A short pitch follows a left facing book to a nice ledge.
#4. A sustained though moderate pitch wanders upwards to a belay ledge. Now scramble and bushwhack up and right until a rock ramp is encountered.
#5. Ascend this ramp fourth class, then up and right to the end of the climb.
Descend via the bushwhack route indicated on the SAHC map of the Santa Catalina Mts.
At a point 3.2 miles up the Pima Canyon trail, looking up-canyon, a white rock wall on the west side of the canyon will be noted. The route lies on the right skyline of this wall as viewed from the aforementioned point on the trail. From the trail, any one of a number of bushwhack routes lead to the base of the buttress.
#1. Attack the buttress directly rather than in a chimney to the left. Fifty feet of climbing brings you to a classic jam crack which is followed to Bender's Balcony, a huge ledge easily visible from below.
#2. Bolts protect 40 feet of climbing to a short crack. Now traverse right to a chute and climb up to a belay at a tree.
#3. A short pitch follows a left facing book to a nice ledge.
#4. A sustained though moderate pitch wanders upwards to a belay ledge. Now scramble and bushwhack up and right until a rock ramp is encountered.
#5. Ascend this ramp fourth class, then up and right to the end of the climb.
Descend via the bushwhack route indicated on the SAHC map of the Santa Catalina Mts.
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