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East Buttress
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Longland's Continuation 
Red Wall 
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Sword, The 

East Buttress 


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Elevation: 2,780'
Lat, Long: 53.0595, -4.057 Map
Page Views: 36. Good page?   
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 10, 2010

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Description 

The buttress has the best concentration of climbs and there are a few of standouts that make for excellent mountaineering style outings, a couple of them are connections of two or more climbs:

1) Horned Crag Route
2) Avalance/Red Wall/Longland's Continuation.
3) Mallory's Slab/Great Chimney


Getting There 

Facing the crag the big left hand buttress.



Featured Route For East Buttress
Not a very good shot, but you can just about make out the quartz ramp, and if you look closely, the rib above it. The large area of shadow about half way up is the approximate location of the great terrace.

The Sword 5.7 PG13  International : United Kingdom : ... : East Buttress
An exposed, blunt rib with good climbing on sound rock, only lacking gear. Start from the ledge at the top of the rightwards-trending quartz ramp, the rib should be to your left.Climb the corner to the right of the rib for about 20 feet to an overlap, stick some protection in then traverse left under the overlap to gain the rib itself. This move is quite tricky but well protected. From here move easily up the rib, with no gear until a ledge with a large block of quartz ("the quartz babe"). A few...[more]   Browse More Classics in International