East Buttress 

There used to be a bolt (or was it a pin?) at the crux. But I gather it is no longer there? Great topo, by the way.

In the spring there is sometimes a spectacular waterfall just west of this route. What often happens that time of year is that the route is dry in the morning, but then the wind begins blowing slightly up the valley, and the waterfall is blown onto the route! Beware of this, just because it faces south in the spring it may not be dry. It can be exciting watching the waterfall drift towards you from the top of the second pitch!

The topo image is a very nice touch. Well done, and something to think about for the future of this website/database.

I'm considering this route for my annual big climb/road trip. I've read the stuff about this route online, the Supertopo section, etc. I'm also comfortable at this level on trad granite. But details, details...Anyone have any tips re: Gear? Anything particularly useful, esp. something to double up on, etc? Any quirks on routefinding? Are the pitches fair for the grade or sandbags? Any other tips for this route? Thanks.

The only way I ever got to climb the Captain. I'm pretty sure that was a pin pounded in the corner for pro. The climb was a challange for me. I led all the 5.9's. I had just gotten my first pair of sticky rubber shoes that summer. It was a little polished even then.

Saw a photo in Climbing magazine, back in the 80's of someone on P3 and just had to do this route. What a great and classic climb.

The first two pitches are linked (w/ a bit of simuling up very easy terrain for both climbers) w/ a 60 M. A useful way to pass a party who uses the belay after the 5.9 chimney.

The Super Topo guide book indicates that the crux traverse on pitch 2 can not be aided. I found this to be inaccurate. The belay on top of pitch 1 hangs just left of this 2-3 move crux. Falling at that point involves swinging back into your belayer. In my case there was a party behind us (with the popularity of this route you can expect to share it with others) thus, we decided to aid past this section instead of trying to figure out the move and holding up others. Here is the aid beta: down climbed about 4 feet, traversed right to the corner, placed a small cam (BD C3 00) just below an old unusable pin, stepped up on a sling and kept on going. My personal opinion is that this crux is out of character with the rest of the route and skipping it is no major loss.

Not sure how you'd know, Sergio, if you didn't do the moves. Calling a sequence of moves on a route that follows natural features and weaknesses 'out of character' is weak. Judging the aesthetic value of that sequence relative to the rest of the climb when you haven't done the moves is weaker. It ain't a gym route, it's a natural line, take it on its own terms. Grrr, end pointless rant here, sorry.

Did the moves, reversed the moves, fell, aided for speed. My personal opinion is that it is a great route regardless of how someone gets past the crux. But please don't take my personal opinion too seriously; go find out for yourself.

Fun route, although there is a lot of choss and 4th class on it. Half the pitches were good, the other half were forgettable. Still, a fun trip up an iconic rock.

The crux is a short sequence that's all there.

The supertopo lists one pitch, maybe p10, as the 'psychological crux' with poor pro. BS. Be sure you get to lead this pitch, it is the best on the route by far, and takes great nuts and small cams all over the face, with really fun climbing.

I don't seem to see the great topo listed in above comments.

Also thought I might add that for the hardmen/women out there you can approach the climb by climbing Moratorium adding a handful of more difficult pitches.

Karsten: Try this one:

fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/eastbutt.gif

Pitch by pitch blow by blow and PDF of the topo:

fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/eastbutt.html

I think 5.9+ is a pretty accurate grade for most of this route. Given all the other gnarly 5.9's in the valley, this one is no different.

The .10b is a couple of techy moves at the start of pitch 2 -- well protected and short. Once you're past those, it's just burly 5.9.

bailed from the top of the 7th pitch (supertopo pitches) in late june due to massive amounts of water from horsetail falls. it seems that it was an abnormally wet year. we checked horsetail from the base and it didn't seem to be making it to the route but things were quite different when we got up there. we did pitch 7 around 11AM and there was maybe 1-5mm thick water sheeting down the rock. doing the mini roof in these conditions was pretty exciting, but it looked like the route was soaked for at least another 4 pitches up.

I wonder if the crux is slightly harder after our passing because a thin edging foothold peeled off as I was pulling the crux move. it seemed a tad stiff for valley 10b, but it was only one well protected move. offset aliens worked well.

If the top half is as good as the bottom half I'll have to come back.

also, don't be afraid of the 5.9 chimney. not bad at all.

FFA: Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed, 1964

Did anybody link pitches? Like P3 and P4, or P4 and P5? Maybe with a 70m?

Fun route. We were able to do it in 8 pitches. The Falcon guide broke it up into 13! We simul climbed the 3rd and 4th pitches, 4th class to 5.6 arete and a ways up the ledges with no problems. The two pitches before the 5.5 traverse which is before the traverse to knobs pitch can also be linked easily with a 60m rope. Watch for rope drag on the traverse to knobs pitch. Lots of room for protection but one needs slings. Large but very polished holds. Quite possibly the money pitch. From the talus ledge above this pitch, one can run it all the way to the top. There is a fixed nut at the crux step over. Also there are fixed lines for the rap down.

Has anyone climbed or know the rating of the off route anchors at pitch 8 (supertopo)/ 5(fish topo)?

Beginning pitch linking recommendation: use the optional tree belay 30' off the ground, then link pitches 1 & 2 with a 60M. This way, you hit the 10b crux mid rope, instead of right off a piton/fixed nut belay in awkward factor 2 fall range. Enjoy it, it's absolutely beautiful!

I'd call the P1 chimney 5.8 at most, being generous. The only 5.9 on that pitch is the end.

Please don't be obnoxious and haul packs. It is plenty reasonable to trail packs on P1, and if they are kept small and light, it is no big deal leading with a pack on the rest of the pitches. The party in front of us hauled 2 packs for most of the pitches!

A better way to aid the crux if you're in a hurry, is to do the following (better with double ropes for the second to follow!):

From the P1 anchor, lieback up about 10-15 ft on the corner that continues above, and tension traverse over from there on bomber gear. I found the cracks beyond tricky, but stepped in a sling to get higher to set a better placement and begin free climbing.

Bring 1-2 #4 C4s and a #5 to comfortably protect P9 if you're doing the OW variation, which is mostly liebacked, with a few deep fist jams. This gear isn't needed anywhere else on the route though . . .

Superfunhappy photos

Anyone know the shade/sun situation on this route in June/July? Is it in full sun or does it get shade for part of the day?