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East Bluff North Talus Field

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80 and Rainy 
A Scanner Darkly 
Battle Cry 
Bird Beak 
Blue Skies And Ski Hi 
Closer to coal 
Cray Cray Project 
Dagger of the Lake 
Diamond in the Rough 
Exfoliator, The 
Fantasticorner 
For the Little People 
Fresh Air 
Good Morning Veruca 
Humble beginnings  
Icicle Tusk 
Little Roof That Could, The 
Metric Measures 
Party Hole 
Project Zero 
Science Friction  
Slab 
Spring Slab 
Sunny & 60's 
SunnyD (aka Sunny & 60's Direct) 
Swoop There It Is 
Wave Rider Direct 
Wave Rider, The 
Wind Rider, The 
Winter Blues, The 
You Only Fall Once 

East Bluff North Talus Field 


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Page Views: 12,694
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009
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52° | 39°
Clear
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North Shore talus field taken from the West Bluff.

Description 

This talus field is the first of the major talus fields on the East Bluff. Located just past the North Shore bouldering area to the south, this area is very similar to the slant boulder field on the West Bluff with large boulders thrown about on a nice hillside. Many hard projects in the area so there is some work to be done.

Note: The potential in this area is amazing, so I would guess others have climbed here before. Terry, Paul, Eric, anyone? If there is any extra info for the area please fill in some blanks.


Getting There 

Enter the park at the north entrance and park in the farthest lot back by the railroad tracks(the lot just past where you park for the North Shore bouldering area). Park and hike straight up hill and you will be in the talus.


31 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',11],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff North Talus Field:
Diamond in the Rough   V1 5     Boulder   
Good Morning Veruca   V1 5 PG13     Boulder   
Fantasticorner   V3 6A     Boulder   
Sunny & 60's   V4 6B     Boulder   
The Wave Rider   V5 6C     Boulder   
The Exfoliator   V6 7A     Boulder   
The Winter Blues   V7- 7A+     Boulder, 10'   
Science Friction    V8- 7B     Boulder   
Browse More Classics in East Bluff North Talus Field

Featured Route For East Bluff North Talus Field
Cool boulder.

Sunny & 60's V4 6B  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : East Bluff North Talus Fiel...
Start with good block on lower right, paste foot and throw for incut edge. Cross through and gain good slopey bread loaf. Turn the corner and get out to face. Top out is a bit heady....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of East Bluff North Talus Field Slideshow Add Photo
Talus field looking right from below.  So much potential.
Talus field looking right from below. So much pot...
Jake on Diamond in the Rough.
Jake on Diamond in the Rough.
Steep little boulder.
Steep little boulder.
Potentially hard line.
Potentially hard line.
Interesting features found in this talus.
Interesting features found in this talus.
Another very impressive boulder that needs some landing work.
BETA PHOTO: Another very impressive boulder that needs some la...
Comments on East Bluff North Talus Field Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 3, 2009
By Tony Brengosz
Nov 11, 2009

So hype to get back and check all this stuff out!!!

By Tradoholic
Nov 12, 2009

Remo, WTF? I already added this area. Going for those MP points eh? I hear you can redeem them for smokes. Eggbert, can you combine these, Remo mucked it up!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 12, 2009

Rhoads, I figured out that they are two different talus fields. I hiked them both and they are separated like the talus fields on the West Bluff. The Australia boulder is just downhill from the Thin Man Corridor at the Monolith. I just wanted to make it less confusing and easier to find.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 12, 2009

Yah, you can see the separate areas easily from West Bluff.

By Tradoholic
Nov 12, 2009

Well, lets name them something a bit different then. I'll leave that up to you Chris, cause I'm already confused. Put this on the google map. If it's the field I think it is, it's more like the East Shore Talus Field.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 13, 2009

Yeah Nick you are right, some of area names on here are kinda confusing. How about this field be called the Monolith field,

and this one be called East Bluff North. Geographically that's more correct. Anyone have a better idea?

By Langlois
From: NYC
Nov 14, 2009

I prefer Rhoadsville and Remotown

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 15, 2009

Nice Langlois.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 15, 2009

Sounds good. All those in favor?

How is this:

Satellite view of the talus fields on the northern part of the East Bluff.
Satellite view of the talus fields on the northern part of the East Bluff.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009

So one of the big problems I found was the amount of crusted on lichen on all the boulders. It was certainly more than my stick scrub brush could do anything with. How do you think you guys will clean this stuff? The hard nature of the rock (as opposed to the dodge) seems like it could hold up to some wire brush use for sure. What do you guys think? That being said I believe it is one of the most accessible boulder areas we have as it is literally straight up from where ever you park your car.

By Tony Brengosz
Dec 2, 2009

I've never used a wire brush at the lake before, but I did find one next to perfect medium the other day, so I would assume that at least some people use them. That doesn't necessarily mean that they should be using them though.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2009

DL quartzite is ~7.5 on the Mohs scale of hardness, only topaz, corundum and diamond are harder. Not sure how wire compares. I have a piece of DL quartizte at my desk (obtained from just outside the park of course), I will try to remember to scrub it with wire brish and see if it visibly mars the surface-- of course this would not only be frowned upon, but also would be cheating: adding texture where there otherwise would be none!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009

I'm gonna just start using a wire brush to try to get some grittyness to the rock. lol. I hear by institue a wire brushing of all projects and things that I havent sent yet so that I may onsight them. Go forth and scrub :-)

By Terry Kieck
Dec 2, 2009

Wire brushes have been used in the past on quartzite. I wore a few brushes out when I first started bouldering at the lake. Don't use them on sandstone though.

By SteveSchultz
Dec 3, 2009

I use a really nice and stiff red paint remover brush from Ace. It's the best thing I've seen for getting that crusty lichen off. Works really really well. When I did Recreational Vehicle the holds were covered in the stuff and it was clean in 10 minutes.