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DescriptionJust minutes from the East Rampart and the CCC parking lot are about a dozen smaller rocks hidden in the woods. They remain pleasantly obscure because they are mostly short (about the height of D'Arcy's Wall or the Guillotine) and there are no trails. The best known route out here is perhaps "American Dream Roof," one of the more dramatic roofs at the Lake. Getting ThereThere are three ways to approach this area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - West of the Quarry:
Lost Temple Corner 5.6 Trad, TR, 50 feet Lost Temple
Little Bird 5.7 TR Bird-Foot Buttress
Bloodshed 5.7 Trad, TR, 40 feet Red Nose Wall
Squeeze Play 5.8 Trad, TR Bird-Foot Buttress
Sick Vulture 5.8 TR Bird-Foot Buttress
Double Jeopardy Cracks 5.9 Trad, TR, 35 feet Vulture Lookout
Purple Stripe 5.10 PG13 TR, 35 feet White Wall
American Dream Roof 5.10d Trad Bird-Foot Buttress
The V (aka The Vulva) 5.10d Trad, TR, 35 feet Vulture Lookout
MANcation 5.11a PG13 Trad, TR, 40 feet Red Nose Wall
Cleveland Toprope 5.12b TR, 40 feet Red Nose Wall
Magic Mushroom 5.12b/c TR, 40 feet Vulture Lookout
Featured Route For East Bluff - West of the Quarry
Bloodshed 5.7 WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Red Nose Wall
Good holds in the dihedral with fun laybacking. Climb the lower face to the grassy ledge and then go up in the dihedral to the roof, then go left into the next dihedral. Try the direct which goes right at the roof and uses the arete above the roof....[more] Browse More Classics in WI |