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East Bluff - West of the Quarry

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Bird-Foot Buttress 
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White Wall 

East Bluff - West of the Quarry  


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Location: 43.4125, -89.7045 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Oct 1, 2007
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Maple leaves and quartzite

Description 

Just minutes from the East Rampart and the CCC parking lot are about a dozen smaller rocks hidden in the woods. They remain pleasantly obscure because they are mostly short (about the height of D'Arcy's Wall or the Guillotine) and there are no trails. The best known route out here is perhaps "American Dream Roof," one of the more dramatic roofs at the Lake.

Getting There 

There are three ways to approach this area.

a) Hike up the CCC, back to the East Bluff Woods trail and head east. Go past the low point in the trail and up another 1/4 mile or so. Depending on the season, you may find faint use-trails heading south to (west to east) American Dream, Vulture Lookout, February Wall, or September Wall. If you are headed to these upper level rocks, this is the easiest approach, but you should probably scout it from below the first time you go.

b) Hike up a fairly well-worn user trail that begins opposite (north of) the Group Camp exit. Where the trail is lost going across rocky areas, low on the hillside, head left and up. Once the steeper hillside gives way to a more gentle slope above, leave the trail heading east. Stay above any boulder fields, and you will pass West Post and arrive at Birdfoot Buttress (the American Dream area).

c) The easiest way to find things if you are new to this part of the Lake. Park at the CCC lot, but hike toward the Quarry. Before you get to the Quarry road, head left (north) into the woods. Head more or less straight up for West Ridge (Lost Temple, Red Nose Wall, etc). Head up and left for the West Terraces (Hidden Buttress, Poison Ivy Wall, Bird-foot Buttress, etc.).

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

60 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',9],['5.8',13],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',7],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - West of the Quarry:
Lost Temple Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 50'   Lost Temple
Bloodshed   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   Red Nose Wall
Mother and Apple Pie   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   Bird-Foot Buttress
American Dream Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Bird-Foot Buttress
The V (aka The Vulva)   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 35'   Vulture Lookout
Cleveland Toprope   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     TR, 40'   Red Nose Wall
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - West of the Quarry

Featured Route For East Bluff - West of the Quarry
How could you not want to climb this?

American Dream Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Bird-Foot Buttress
There was a photo of American Dream Roof that hung above the bar at the now-defunct Conway's Pub. Inspired by the photo, many beer addled climbers hatched plans to hike out and climb ADR only to see those plans evaporate when the hangover set in. If you do make it out there, ADR is a must-do DL lead. American Dream Roof climbs the conspicuous overhang on the right side of the buttress. Start up the easy inside corner and traverse to the roof. From here, place your entire rack of cams under the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

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