BETA PHOTO: The Railroad Tracks Area from the West Bluff
This area, located above the railroad tracks on the East shore of the lake includes Waterfall Wall, Railroad Ampitheater, Lumby Ridge, Birthday Rocks, Horse Rampart, Lothar's Ledges, and Squirrel's Nest Tower. The area is perhaps the most easily accessed group of rocks at the lake. Notable climbs include Pine Tree Step-Across, Birthday Crack, and Roger's Roof.
To get to the rocks above the railroad tracks, park at the north end of the South Shore parking lot. Head north towards the railroad tracks via a paved walkway. Once you get to the tracks follow them north along the east shore of the lake. After 5-10 minutes of walking you will see a large electric fence (more of a net) to your right. Railroad Ampitheater is approximately 150 feet past the end of this fence, while Birthday rocks is directly above the fence. Horse Rampart is a little higher up the bluff toward the southeast from Birthday Rocks. Lothar's Ledges are straight up the talus slope from the south end of the electric fence, and Squirrel's Nest Tower is directly south of Horse Rampart.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - Railroad Tracks:
Roger's Roof is a well known climb at Horse Rampart. When approaching Horse Rampart from Birthday Rocks, Roger's Roof is located near the middle of the formation about 50 feet past the top-rope access "gully". To climb this beauty, start to the left of the alcove at the base of the wall. Follow the wedge-shaped rib up to the hand crack in the roof. When you get to the roof, reach above it and jam your palm (you will bleed) into the crack while keeping your feet high on the face below the roo...[more]Browse More Classics in WI
The Amphitheater is definitely a must if you are looking for a good Climb, when I was climbing this was the spot. It was an excellant spot to climb when the park was busy, no one went there to much, most climbers were enthralled with the bigger walls. Just above the amphitheater My old climbing partner Paul Nowak and I found a couple of Good 5.7,5.8 climbs and Bouldering areas. One we named Shooting the Moon, and rated it about a 5.7, not to hard, but a lot of nice micros and cracker ledges. This may already may have a name, we never found it in the booklet though. I would be interested to hear if anyone else discovered this treasure.