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East Bluff - Far West End

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Balanced Rock Wall 
Box Canyon 
Effie, The 
Hole-In-The-Wall 
Liederkranz 
Prong Wall 

East Bluff - Far West End  


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 17, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the far west end of the East Bluff from ...

Description 

The far west end of the East Bluff contains the very popular Balanced Rock Wall, along with the more obscure Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz, Hole-In-The-Wall, The Slab, and The Effie. The area is easily surveyed from the South Shore parking lot. The Balanced Rock Wall contains what many say is the classic climb at the Lake, Watermarks (5.8). Above the Balanced Rock Wall is the Balanced Rock Ridge, a seldom-visited ridge containing a series of short scrambling pitches. To the immediate east of the Balanced Rock Wall are Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall, two smaller areas with interesting climbs. There are also two formations, The Slab and The Effie, at the top of the talus field midway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Devil's Doorway. These rocks contain a handful of shorter climbs.

Getting There 

To get to the East Bluff - Far West End, park at the South Shore parking lot and follow the paved walkway to the railroad tracks. Just past the railroad tracks you will find the junction of two trails. To the left is the Balanced Rock Trail, to the right is the Grottos Trail. To get to the Balanced Rock Wall, Balanced Rock Ridge, Liederkranz and Hole-In-The-Wall turn left and hike up the rock steps of the Balanced Rock Trail. About halfway up the bluff you will encounter the Balanced Rock Wall (can't miss it!). Top-Rope access can be gained by going around the northwest end of the wall. The Liederkranz can be accessed by walking around the east end of the Balanced Rock Wall and up the gully about 100 ft. To get to the Hole-In-The-Wall continue 200 ft east past the Liederkranz and slightly up the bluff. Finally, The Slab and The Effie can be found by taking the Grottos Trail to the right just after passing over the railroad tracks at the bottom of the bluff. Walk east on this scenic trail until you're about halfway between the Balanced Rock Wall and Doorway Rocks. Scramble up to the top of the talus field where you'll find a 35 ft slab (The Slab), with The Effie just above it.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

44 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',17],['5.7',3],['5.8',10],['5.9',7],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - Far West End:
New Box   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   Balanced Rock Wall
Sunken Pillar   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR   Balanced Rock Wall
Red Pulpit   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Balanced Rock Wall
Watermarks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   Balanced Rock Wall
Der Glotz   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   Balanced Rock Wall
Fear and Trembling   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR   Balanced Rock Wall
Watermarks Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   Balanced Rock Wall
AAHRG   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Balanced Rock Wall
Moondust    5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Balanced Rock Wall
Morning After   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad   Balanced Rock Wall
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - Far West End

Featured Route For East Bluff - Far West End
Closer look at Der Glotz.

Der Glotz 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall
Der Glotz is a great route situated between Watermarks and Sunken Pillar. It follows a right-trending diagonal ledge up to some tough moves up along the left side of the zig-zag overhangs of Watermarks Left Side. To climb get up onto the diagonal ledge (ledge is about 2" wide) and use careful hands to work right until ledge runs out. At the top of the ledge reach up to a rectangular pocket. Pull up on this pocket and move your feet up so you can get your feet up into this pocket. From here ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of East Bluff - Far West End Slideshow Add Photo
The Balanced Rock. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
The Balanced Rock. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.

Comments on East Bluff - Far West End Add Comment
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By Anonymous
Aug 16, 2005
I solo-climbed down Devils Doorway; it was insane but I lived to talk about it (don't recommend ever doing that again without safety ropes and harness.) The experience was breathtaking. I will be buying all the right equipment and will be doing that again.
By scott isaacman
From: Silver Bay, MN
Dec 25, 2006
This fall, someone fell to their death in this area (no gear). Perhaps an argument can be made for natural selection; however, there is a risk the DNR will decide climbing is too hazardous to allow in the park. Be safe. Climb safe. Always.
By Tradoholic
Apr 6, 2011
I added "Prong Wall" to this area (in the book but not named) and therefore defined the boarder of the Far West End as the gully to Ramsay's Pinnacle.