East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Rock Climbing
Devils Lake. Final moves with the runout underneat...
The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.
The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are: No Sweat
(Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon) Pedestal Buttress
(incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe) Gill's Buttress
(Twin Cracks to Boy Scout) Brinton's Buttress
(Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney) Two Pines Buttress
(incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia) Many Pines
(Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae) V8 Tower
(incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus) Bill's Buttress
(Dogleg to The Outhouse) Rainy Wednesday Tower
(Out of the Woods to Hirsute) Bedroom Wall
(Cerebration to Foreplay) Four Brothers
Pseudo Hawks Nest
(Wild Horses to Anchor's Away) Balshazzar's Feast
(Renal Exam to Land's End)
To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.
Weather station 3.7 miles from here
261 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',109],['2 Stars',98],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Bluff 04 - East Rampart:
Featured Route For East Bluff 04 - East Rampart
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
: Devil's Lake
: ... : Many Pines Buttress
This is a beautiful, wandering thin face climb between "Black Rib" and the corner, "Man and Superman" first TR'd by Pete Cleveland in the 60's. Double-rope helps. It has two rests, and lots of exciting, sustained climbing between. The protection doesn't show up for the first 25 feet, but there is a good pro from there on. The route starts with an extended RH layback up to some thin finger slots, moves right and up on small footholds to an obvious "ledge" about 10 ft up. It moves back left a...[more] Browse More Classics in WI
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Evan Marsh
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 17, 2015
Safety Alert! There is a very active underground BEE HIVE on the right side of the climber's trail as you approach Gill's Buttress from the east. Be cautious, my friend was stung by one when we first got there.
Apr 24, 2002
I used to think this hike was long and hard until I moved to Colorado. Tom - Great work on the site. I learned to climb at the lake and have moved on to bigger things, but I'll be back some day and will use the site often then. Keep it up! Mark Morehouse
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 31, 2005
this area is one of the best places to climb at dl as proven by it having been worked to death by decades of midwest climbers.it is a great place to pull down whether you top-rope or lead.there are scores of 3 star routes to climb. lets be careful out there!