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East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

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Balshazzar's Feast 
Bill's Buttress 
Brinton's Buttress 
D'Arcy's Buttress 
Four Brothers 
Gill's Buttress 
Guillotine, The 
Hawk's Nest 
Leaning Tower 
Many Pines Buttress 
Moldy Buttress 
Monster, The 
No Sweat 
Pedestal Buttress 
Pseudo Hawk's Nest 
Rainy Wednesday Tower 
Two Pines Buttress 

East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.41364, -89.7133 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 85,442
Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James M Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Mar 4, 2002
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Devils Lake. Final moves with the runout underneat...

Description 

The East Rampart is the most popular climbing area at Devil's Lake. It is a quarter-mile long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the park. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Lake, and the climbs are generally long (some over 100 feet) and exposed. You are apt to find that no matter how early you've come to climb that famous route someone else has already claimed it. But rest assured, there are plenty of other classics to choose from in the event you arrived a little too late. You'd be crazy to avoid the area solely because of the crowds. This is, after all, the most popular climbing area at the park for a reason.

The areas included here in the East Rampart, from East to West (right to left), are:

No Sweat
Guillotine Wall
Guillotine
The Monster

D'Arcy's Buttress
(Cemetary Wall to Darkness at Noon)
Pedestal Buttress (incl. Sometime, Campus Wall) (Sometime Right Side to Lethe)
Gill's Buttress (Twin Cracks to Boy Scout)
Brinton's Buttress (Rubber Man to Puff'n'Grunt Chimney)
Two Pines Buttress (incl. Mouse Wall) (The Rack to Hypoglycemia)
Many Pines (Buttress (incl. Peter's, Flatus) (Anemia to Algae)
V8 Tower
Moldy Buttress
(incl. Minus Wall) (Lichen to Roofus)
Bill's Buttress (Dogleg to The Outhouse)
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Green Bulge
(Out of the Woods to Hirsute)
Bedroom Wall (Cerebration to Foreplay)

Four Brothers

Leaning Tower
Tombstone Wall

Pseudo Hawks Nest
(Wild Horses to Anchor's Away)
Balshazzar's Feast
Hawk's Nest
(Renal Exam to Land's End)

Getting There 

To get to the East Rampart park at the CCC parking lot and cross the road to pick up the CCC hiking trail. The trail consists of rock steps that climb through the woods and up the talus field for a good 15-30 minute hike. When you get to "The Monster", a 20 foot wall, take a left at the "T" in the trail until you get to the "Pedestal Buttress". At this point, you can turn right and around D'Arcy's Buttress to access the top of the cliff (and many access gullies) or you can go left to access the bottom of the cliff. Go right only if your climb is located at "Many Pines Buttress" or east. If your climb is west of there, take the upper trail and descend to the base of the climb via the "Leaning Tower" gully.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

264 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',114],['2 Stars',97],['1 Star',33],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',66],['5.7',44],['5.8',23],['5.9',21],['5.10',41],['5.11',34],['5.12',28],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for East Bluff 04 - East Rampart:
Brinton's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 80'   Brinton's Buttress
Coatimundi Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'   Bill's Buttress
Peter's Project   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Many Pines Buttress
Orgasm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Rainy Wednesday Tower
Birch Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pedestal Buttress
Brinton's Direct   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   Brinton's Buttress
Upper Diagonal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Pedestal Buttress
The Stretcher   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   Pedestal Buttress
Mouse's Misery   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Two Pines Buttress
Sometime Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pedestal Buttress
Cheatah   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'   Bill's Buttress
Sometime Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 60'   Pedestal Buttress
Flake Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR   Pedestal Buttress
Alpha Centauri   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 100'   Hawk's Nest
Thoroughfare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 50'   Two Pines Buttress
D.L.F.A   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 29 pitches, 290'   Pedestal Buttress
Gill's Nose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR   Gill's Buttress
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Gill's Buttress
Bagatelle   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in East Bluff 04 - East Rampart

Featured Route For East Bluff 04 - East Rampart
Rock Climbing Photo: tommy d. showing us the WAY

All The Way 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress
Do you want to lead a 5.12 at the Lake? I'm talking about a "real" 5.12--not some obscure short climb at Horse Rampart or some corner over at Sandstone. I'm talking about hard moves, tricky pro and mandatory runouts in groundfall territory. I'm talking about a 5.12 that is a hair's breath away from the mythical routes like Bagatelle whose leads only live in the memory of a few crazed souls. Yeah, you guessed it, I'm talking about going All the Way. As with all 5.12 leads at DL, the stor...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall sunset from the East Bluff trail. October '08...
Fall sunset from the East Bluff trail. October '08...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ripples in stone
Ripples in stone
Rock Climbing Photo: Spiderwort and Baraboo Quartzite
Spiderwort and Baraboo Quartzite
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Best Belay Seat Ever at Devil's Lake.  One day (ea...
Best Belay Seat Ever at Devil's Lake. One day (ea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Horan on The Little Flatiron, Devil's Lake, WI...
Bob Horan on The Little Flatiron, Devil's Lake, WI...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the CCC trail looking toward Madison.
From the CCC trail looking toward Madison.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kim, on Brinton's
Kim, on Brinton's
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring ephemerals
Spring ephemerals
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the base of Brinton's Buttress 2...
Looking down from the base of Brinton's Buttress 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Our friend the woodchuck
Our friend the woodchuck
Rock Climbing Photo: Birdfoot Violet (Viola pedata) is an unusual littl...
Birdfoot Violet (Viola pedata) is an unusual littl...
Rock Climbing Photo: How to be rude
How to be rude
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Vogtschaller cruises the CCC trail to the Eas...
Jeff Vogtschaller cruises the CCC trail to the Eas...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of Chicago.
View from the top of Chicago.
Rock Climbing Photo: Best seat in the house
Best seat in the house
Rock Climbing Photo: The cool weather has been good to these guys!
The cool weather has been good to these guys!
Rock Climbing Photo: East Bluff boulderfield under snow, 2011
East Bluff boulderfield under snow, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: CCC trail at "The Flatiron", and the fro...
CCC trail at "The Flatiron", and the fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kristi taking a breather after the hike up the CCC...
Kristi taking a breather after the hike up the CCC...
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the CCC trail to the East Bluff.
The start of the CCC trail to the East Bluff.

Comments on East Bluff 04 - East Rampart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous
Apr 24, 2002
I used to think this hike was long and hard until I moved to Colorado. Tom - Great work on the site. I learned to climb at the lake and have moved on to bigger things, but I'll be back some day and will use the site often then. Keep it up! Mark Morehouse
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 31, 2005
this area is one of the best places to climb at dl as proven by it having been worked to death by decades of midwest climbers.it is a great place to pull down whether you top-rope or lead.there are scores of 3 star routes to climb. lets be careful out there!

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