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East Bluff - East of the Quarry

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Aladdin's Castle 
Bandshell, The 
Bastille Rock 
Condor Corner 
February Wall 
Mousehole Buttress 
Prayer Wall 
Rattlesnake Ridge 
September Wall 
Siamese Buttress 
U Haul Overhangs 

East Bluff - East of the Quarry  


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Apr 23, 2007
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Dutchman's Breeches and the sound of Chorus frogs ...

Description 

Scattered through the woods between the quarry and Roznos Meadow are a dozen smaller quartzite rocks and crags. There are some great routes out here, including "Sickle" (5.10+) and "Shooting Star" (5.11+). The lowest rocks are within 500 feet of the road!

And its pretty secluded out here. In ten trips out here, I have once heard another party nearby, and never actually seen another party. Why ruin it by adding it to the Mountain Project database? The area has pretty good defenses of its own. There are no trails. There is lots of loose talus on every approach. It's very easy to veer on the approach and miss the specific rock you're aiming for. In the summer there are bugs and raspberry bushes and poison ivy. And to top it all off, nearby parking is poor to non-existent.

Getting There 

There are two approaches: park along South Lake Drive and scramble up, or park at the CCC lot and hike.

South Lake Drive: From the South Shore, drive east along South Lake Drive, past the group camp and the CCC parking lot. Drive down the hill by the quarry, and under the quarry spoil bank. The are some good pullouts at the east end of the spoil bank for access to U-Haul Overhangs and Aladdin's Castle. For most other rocks it is better to drive a little further and find room to pull off the pavement between the speed limit sign and where the trees end.

If you are coming in from Hwy 113, pass the Roznos Meadow/Old Sandstone parking area, and drive into the woods before parking.

For September Wall and February Wall, it is easiest to park at the CCC, take the CCC trail to the top of the bluff, head back into the woods to the East Bluff Woods Trail/Upland Trail, and hike east until you are above the rock you're looking for, then head south through the woods. There are some faint use trails up here, but this won't be easy if its your first time here!

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

42 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',8],['5.8',10],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Bluff - East of the Quarry:
Condor Corner   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Condor Corner
This is a Six?   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 30'   Prayer Wall
The Bishop   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 40'   Prayer Wall
Sickle   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 40'   Prayer Wall
Shooting Star   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR, 50'   Condor Corner
Browse More Classics in East Bluff - East of the Quarry

Featured Route For East Bluff - East of the Quarry
Nice and steep.  Photo by Dave Nelson.

Encore 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI : Devil's Lake : ... : The Bandshell
Start on a large flat rock, move up to the flaring slot. Where a large crack cuts under the bulge and heads right, continue straight up the seam....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Comments on East Bluff - East of the Quarry Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Oct 6, 2010
There are 1-2 good to great climbs in each of these areas, some even worth their approach on their own but mostly these are short and insignificant pieces of rock to which the 4 star climber would be disappointed.

I DID have a great time traversing this bluff and selecting the good ones to climb in pitches for a nice long day of easy climbing.

With the map provided in Sven's book it isn't bad at all to find these crags as most are either directly next to or directly above/below another.